1982 Mercedes 300td Turbo Diesel W123 4 Speed Manual Transmission Euro Swap 300d on 2040-cars

Advertising:

VIN: WDBAB33AXCB005525 Year: 1982
Number of Cylinders: 5
Make: Mercedes-Benz
Model: 300-Series
Trim: 300TD
Options: Sunroof, Cassette Player, Leather Seats
Drive Type: RWD
Power Options: Air Conditioning, Cruise Control, Power Locks, Power Windows
Mileage: 325,000
Sub Model: 300TD 300D 300 D
Exterior Color: White
Disability Equipped: No
Interior Color: Blue
Warranty: Vehicle does NOT have an existing warranty

Condition: Used: A vehicle is considered used if it has been registered and issued a title. Used vehicles have had at least one previous owner. The condition of the exterior, interior and engine can vary depending on the vehicle's history. See the seller's listing for full details and description of any imperfections. ... 

 

Up for NO RESERVE auction I have a 1982 300TD W123 Sedan with a 5 cylinder 3.0L Turbo Diesel Engine mated to a 240D 4 Speed Manual Transmission. You will notice that my description is a lengthy novel, but in my 13 years on ebay and 250 plus positive transactions I have sold 20-25 cars and have never had anyone show up and say it was not as described. Nothing makes me more upset then to drive for hours and something be far from described and I would want to do that to others. So please take time to read and if you have any questions please ask and i will answer them.  

 

First off let me tell you why this car is so special. From all my research (someone could prove me wrong) a 300 series was made with a turbo diesel and manual transmssion by Mercedes but it was never offered in the United States market. You could only get the car with the sometimes problematic power mpg robbing automatic. People have begun to do the swaps using the 240D 4 speed rock solid manual transmsision. It is a bit of a chore and nest egg though to collect the parts, mounts and make the custom driveshaft. This one was already done shortly before i bought it. I have a TDI golf now that batter suits my needs so this one is leaving. The gentlemen before me had transmission installed with new flywheel, LUK clutch, pressure plate, and throughout bearing. All new German made flex joints and hardware (u joints), trans mount, pedal assy etc. I have seen thei kit on ebay go for around $1000-1500 without the drive shaft/flex joints and clutch kit. This was not a hack job in my opionin. The console looks stock with stock looking 240 shifter and boot all in placed as it should be. He also replaced all the steering componenets inner/outer tire rods, drag link. Brakes replaced. He bought German made control arm bushings, sway bar, and other bushings alone with new Bilstein front shocks. He said the passenger side was really bad so he replaced the passenger side bushings and shock and the drivers side is still new in the trunk. The fact that all the components I have seen replaced are all MB or german suppliers makes me feel better about its history. It isn't all china auto parts store junk. The only old steering component is the steering box, which i will admit has some play but drives great down the road.

 

Since I purchased it I have replaced the following things, high crank battery, glow plugs, New GERMAN made Monarch injection nozzles and had injectors balanced with new heat shields, all new sheathed fuel return/supply lines, new filters, vacuum pump, new belts, glow plug controller, new motor mounts, and air cleaner mounts, new exhaust from flex pipe back, The old exhaust passed inspection. During the last big 9" snow we had i got high centered on a snow pile the city trucks left leaving a parking lot. It bent the exhaust so i had it replaced with a new straight pipe all the way back. It breathes better and is not loud at all. This car is a daily driving, licensed and insured vehicle. I would not be afraid to drive it anywhere.

 

I will now try to list things that I know the car needs. Currently when you shift you can hear a clunk from the rear end of the car. From all my research the housing are cast in the differintial and the steel pin that goes through them wears over time and creates slack. I am guessing this is the case on this car. I would still drive it anywhere. However I wanted to ditch the 3.07 gear that is in it and put the highly desired 2.88 that came out in the 1985 models. I bought one with 120k on it. It is inlcuded with the car. This is supposed to be the set up to have with the turbo 5 cylinder, manual trans and the tall highway gear to keep the rpms down and mpgs up. I have only had one other turbo diesel W123 and this car will run circles around. Not a drag racer by any means but not afraid to pull out in traffic like my old car.

 

The A/C does not have a belt. That usually means it doesn't work. I haven't even looked at it. I will at least try to update listing and see if the compressor turns freely or not. The sunroof does not operate, could be fuse or motor haven't looked at it (all the windows work :) which i guess is rare for these cars). The earlier mention bushing and shock shock will need to be installed on drivers side at sometime. There is a dripping oil leak from the roght side middle of the engine. The oil return line from the turbo seems to wiggle loosely where it returns into the block. After a drive you will get 5-7 drops left in your driveway which annoys me, but just wasn't priority over other things. When you start the car the key ignition spring doesn't quite return the key counter clock wise to accesories ( so like your blower motor for heat won't come on if you don't rotate key back). May be as simple as lubing it I just turned it back a hair. These may seem like little things i just don't want anyone to be disappointed or surprised.

 

Interior- The blue interior in this car is nice. It always blows me away how 30 year old 300k BMW and Benz leather looks better then 5 year old 100k american cars. The drivers seat has some cracks in one section but no rips. All seats are firm and springs are not broken and the other three seats look like new like most of these old cars. Door panels, carpet, and headliner all in great shape. The dash has numerous cracks in. The Benz shop I bought the 2.88 rear end from (also guys that use to service the car years ago) loved the 4 speed conversion and mentioned that he had a perfect blue dash if someone was worried about restoring it , didn't get a price but thought I would pass on his info.

 

Body- When it was on the rack I took some pictures of the underside of the car. I see no rust underneath. Solid floor pans, solid trunk. Rockers seem good. I can see some bubbling paint around the little hole in the rocker where you are suppose to jack the car up. I see the same thing on the bottom side of the lip of the rear quarter on the right side but none on left. I can see rust bubble starting in front of the front drivers fender behind bumper. The last thing I can see is bubbled paint around trim of lower corner drivers side rear window, no holes just paint bubble. Appears to be original paint. The only dent is on the high curved edge of the right rear quarter. the dent can be reached from the backside inside the trunk. The paint still shines great, all rubber and trim is present and in good shape. Some young person has a nice hood ornament because this car sure doesnt. Missing when I got it. The grill is all there but the UV rays from the sun has bleached it out (has the 250KM badge on it) tailight was cracked when i bought it replaced it an all burnt bulbs. All lights work. Bumpers in perfect shape, wheels nice and tires match in sets of two and seem to have good tread and quitely go down the road. 

 

Mechanically- Like I said i would drive this car anywhere. I bought it in January and it started every cold day even with one bad glow plug (replaced them all). When it starts it makes just a very light puff, idles quitely (much quiter with new injectors), valves have been adjusted, no noises, no smoke (except for a little black smoke under acceleration). The speedometer broke on me on the way home 31 miles after buying it. I thought the speedo was bad so i put a salvage one in and foolishly discarded the old one before the repair. It was the speedo cable that broke about two inches from the cluster. To the best of my memory the car had 323,000 miles showing when i brought it home. I have filled the car up about 15 times. I have a folder and inch thick with astonishingly well kept records on the car. Never looked to see if the engine was orginal in those records, we know the trans isnt. I wish i would have had a compression check done when the injectors and glow plugs were out to give buyer some idea of what engine life is left. With rotella oil in it at full warm idle the oil pressure is in the middle at 2 which I assume is 20 psi, and as soon as you hit the gas it pegs to 4 or I guess 40 psi. That has always made me feel pretty confident about lower end bearing and crank life in cars when i see that if you cared about my 2 cents. Worst case the car and possible engine has around 325-330K on it, or at some point the engine may have been replaced. It gives me know reason to think it will give up on you at anytime in the near future.

 

In summary if someone were to ask me what they were going to see when they show up I would say they you will find a 30 year old car that cosmetically presents itself well for the age and mileage, and interior that besides the cracked dash and lightly worn seat is above average, with a all major mechanical components in good working order with only the things mentioned needing attention.  If you bid with the understanding that this is a 30 year old car with over 300,000 miles then you will not be disappointed. I think for those stats this car is in great shape. I work minutes from MCI Kansas City airport and would be happy to meet someone who was fly in. I would expect cash (no checks, IOU's, goat/chickens etc...lol) in hand after the 48 hour $500 required deposit. At that time I will provide a bill of sale and the appropriately signed clean title to the new owner. Thank you and good luck.