72 Chevelle 6.0 Lq9 Chevrolet Chevy 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 Ls1 Ss Camaro Nova on 2040-cars

All New: (unless stated otherwise)
‘05 6.0 LQ9 with 65,000 miles
PRC 215 heads full CNC heads
Custom EPS 226-230 598-600 111+4 high torque cam 
FAST EZ-EFI, MSD 6010 & Performer RPM intake
Extreme Automatics 200-4R Stage 1 
3200 RevMax 9.5” lock-up converter 
Hooker 1 3/4” ceramic coated headers with 3” Dynomax Super Turbo’s
Aluminum Driveshaft from Action Machine 
Fuel tank, pick-up and sending unit
Braided Teflon fuel pressure line
Dash Pad & Dash Bezel (both still in boxes)
Driveshaft loop (still in box)
Driver and Passenger 3-point seat belts
B&M Hammer shifter
Wheel Vintiques 30 Series with 235/60 and 295/50 Mickey Thompson S/T’s
Moser 30 spline axles and Moser aluminum rear diff cover with bearing cap support
Eaton style (Yukon Dura-grip) posi with the larger bearings and 3.42 gears
8.5” 10 bolt from a ‘72 Buick Skylark
Boxed lower control arms and adjustable uppers
Front and rear swaybars
Jeep steering box (rebuilt Cardone)
Kwik truck accessory drive with underdrive crank pulley and overdrive alternator pulley
Vintage Air (needs A/C hoses ran and some interior ducting)
Aluminum dual pass radiator and Black Magic Extreme electric fan (fan is a few years old)
Water pump, alternator, transmission cooler, master Cylinder (manual), battery, starter, brake hoses, pads, rotors, shoes, drums, shocks, headlights & bezels

Notes:

Similar setups to this make in the low 500’s for horsepower and this will have lots of torque do to the custom cam design.  If you stick it you should be able to get into the 10’s on 91+ octane and still get 20+ highway mpgs.

The battery is centered (left to right) in the trunk because it was meant to be a street car, first.  There is an external shutoff that should be good for Real Street drags as long as you have a piece of tape pointing to it because it is somewhat hidden.

There is no rust in the typical body areas.  I believe the rear quarters and one of the fenders have been replaced.  The seals are fairly new and the glass is all good.  I found a few pin holes in the trunk but stopped them with CorrosionX for now.  The could easily be fixed with epoxy and repainted.  The underbody is quite clean.  Both bumpers are fairly new.  All fluids are synthetic:  oil, trans, diff, brakes, steering.

I put Zero Rust (similar to POR 15) and a butyl sound deadener on the firewall before installing the AC assembly.  I will include the 1 3/4 rolls that is left.  I planned to do the whole interior.

The transmission has a constant pressure setup so no TV cable is needed.  It will shift into OD around 35-ish (if I remember correctly) which is better for MPGs.  If you don’t want it in OD that early then just use the ratchet shifter.  With the lock-up converter, do not shift into OD (4th) with more than 1/2 throttle.  If you want to “get on it” I would keep it out of overdrive for maximum transmission life.

It really needs to be repainted.  A previous owner did a poor job.  It looks OK from about 10 feet away.  The lead lines show along the roof line do to a lack of primer or something and there is some rough body work along the rockers..  There is a ding in the drivers door about the size of a quarter and at least one good run in the clear but that is low enough that most people don’t see it.

The carpet is faded and needs to be replaced.  The seats and headliner are in good shape. 

It has an oil leak (drip) on the back side of the motor.  Using a PCV rather than just a breather may fix or reduce that problem.

The engine compartment wiring has been hidden (for the most part).  The wiper motor was deleted so if you are in an inspection area that could be a problem.  RainX once every spring will do more than the wipers ever did.

I finally got this running last fall.  The FAST system is still learning and so am I.  The motor has never been over 5000 and the shift points should be around 6000-ish.  Do to the overlap on the cam and how sensitive the IAC is I have the FAST idle set at 750 and opened the throttle blades to 750-800 (on the tach).  This was the best way to get a smooth idle otherwise it would tend to hunt (surge) because the IAC is sensitive.  The LS intake manifold is kind of cold blooded since it does not have any hot engine oil splashing on it.  When it is cool out I have had the idle stay high because the inlet air temp sensor gets cold soaked.  The idle and cruise are set at 14.4 air/fuel which is the cleanest setting for E10 which is only 6% ethanol (usually) according to reports from a person that does fuel testing at gas stations.

I have new header gaskets and longer bolts because I think there may still be a leak which could cause some incorrect readings on the O2 sensor.  The flanges on the collector have dead soft aluminum gaskets so I think those are good.

I have receipts for most of the important items.  If you do not have a laptop I can include mine, for programming the MSD.  It is a clone and my intent was to remove the badges when it got repainted.  When you make 500+ horsepower you don’t have to pretend that it is something that it's not. ;-)  I am selling this because I was off work for nearly 6 months and my finances took a significant hit.  The title is clear with no lien.