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633csi Daily Driver California Car Rare 5-speed Black Good Body E24 E28 635 535 on 2040-cars

Year:1984 Mileage:999999 Color: Black /
 Red
Location:

Salt Lake City, Utah, United States

Salt Lake City, Utah, United States
Transmission:5-speed
Engine:3.2
Body Type:Coupe
Vehicle Title:Clear
VIN: WBAEB7401E6727989 Year: 1984
Exterior Color: Black
Make: BMW
Interior Color: Red
Model: 6-Series
Number of Cylinders: 6
Trim: Csi
Drive Type: RWD
Mileage: 999,999
Options: Sunroof, Leather Seats, CD Player
Condition: Used: A vehicle is considered used if it has been registered and issued a title. Used vehicles have had at least one previous owner. The condition of the exterior, interior and engine can vary depending on the vehicle's history. See the seller's listing for full details and description of any imperfections. ... 


This is a relist--originally sold about a month ago, but the buyer couldn't come through--nice people, just didn't work out. There is one difference--quite good, I think--in the condition of the car compared to when I first listed it. I've taken care of (or at least I hope I have!) the oil leak (some of you may remember the car had a pretty substantial, and annoying oil leak). What follows below is the original text, more or less intact, save for the discussion of the oil leak, which I've 'updated' and discuss further. 




(I subscribe to the theory there's no such thing as knowing too much about what you're buying. Apologies in advance, the following description will, to some, read over long. It is so not because I'm a mechanical expert (the reader will soon know I am not), or even that I've a long history with this car (on the contrary, it's been short), but rather my experience as a buyer on ebay leads me to err on the side of inclusion--good and bad--rather than the opposite. Also, please note, generally how I rate and describe the car is on a relative scale, adjusted to the bottom end of the price scale. For instance, describing something as in 'good' condition on a $1000 car has one meaning; saying something is in good condition on a $20,000 car has quite another. May seem an obvious point, but experience has shown isn't always so...)



I bought this car in September of last year, in Salt Lake City. I wasn't necessarily looking to buy, but it showed up for sale locally, the price was right, and it was a 5-speed (can't do automatics); also I'd always been fond of the 6 series. I drove the car daily until June (I moved over to a TT). In my ownership I've done a thousand and one little things on the machine, but there's still work to be done...


The bottom line. California car--the Autocheck report with this listing shows the oldest record a '97 CA emissions...and showing up in UT in '08 (I remember there was a CA plate in the trunk when I bought it, dated '08 as well). Mechanically the car's in decent shape for it's price range (i.e. low end): starts, stops, cruises at 70 just fine. But there are two issues of note, which I'll mention here and describe in further below: has some top end oil burning (blue smoke at startup), and the driveline is bit jerky. The body is pretty decent, rust is not an issue. The interior is pretty clean and functional. In fuller detail:


Mechanics. The week after I bought the car I drove to my parents' home in Kansas City, thus the MO plates. (I had planned the trip earlier, and it worked out quite well, for tagging the car in MO saved me the hassle of dealing with SLC emissions.) The car drove perfectly there and back, which is about a 2200 mile round trip. On the way there I used about 3/4 of a quart of oil, pretty normal for a car this age, I reckon. Car was quite comfortable cruising at 70 all day (these cars are beautiful highway cruisers)


The 6 always starts first try. But yes, as alluded to above, at startup you will see puffs of blue smoke--some oil getting past the valves. Not a huge deal to me, but it may be to some, esp regarding emissions. The clutch, brakes, front suspension are all pretty decent, nothing obvious to report there. But the driveline is definitely on the jerky/thunky side, both when shifting and when pushing in/letting go the gas (you can finesse the shifts and smooth that bit of jerkiness out, but on accel/decel it's still there--most annoying at low speed in parking lots). I did replace both CV assemblies, that helped a little bit, but was not the source of the problem. Doubt it's the rear end or anything too exotic, my guess is the u-joints (I remember looking at rubber center driveshaft support, think it was OK) 


The oil leak, now fixed. About two months into my ownership the car suddenly developed a major oil leak, quite suddenly. Wasn't burning the oil (startup blue smoke notwithstanding), definitely leaking--put a piece of cardboard underneath the car and let it idle for five minutes, and there'd be a huge puddle... Well, I finally stopped being lazy, did some internet research, and without even having to check on the car I found out what it was--the rear cam 'duck' seal (gasket kind of looks like a duck, hence the name). People who'd done the repair described it exactly as mine was: impossible to find, a big leak, drops would show up at the bottom of the transmission bell housing. So I replaced the gasket and the o-ring that (quite randomly) only one of the six 10mm bolts takes (annoying repair, can't see what you're doing at all). I think the gasket was fine, it was the o-ring that was leaking, I could tell when I took it off, an oily mess. Anyway, the oil leak should be sorted now; I say 'should' only because I haven't really driven the car enough to be absolutely sure (simple reason: the car's sitting in storage and isn't insured and I'm past the age of doing silly things like driving uninsured cars around). But I drove the car car about twenty miles and more importantly, the car passed the idle test with flying colors: put some cardboard underneath the car, let it idle and revved it for about ten minutes, not a drop. And of course when I took the o-ring off and replaced it with a new one, could see the old o-ring was shot...  


The clutch is fine, and the car shifts pretty OK. The shifter to be honest is a little bit on the vague side, time to replace those bushings... The gearbox and differential fluids are new, Redline. Engine oil I use full synthetic. Within the last thousand miles, the steering wheel has developed an annoying wobble between 45-55mph, classic "tires need balancing" feel, I don't know I've ever had those tires balanced, and they've got around 20K on them (came from my old 5). (Updated thought: it is a bit annoying, I found when I drove the car home and back to do the oil repair, the 'wobble' that shows up around 45mph. I think the car sitting the last couple of months along with the tires needing balancing from before, they've probably developed some flat spots. Hopefully just driving it around and getting the tires balanced will sort the wobble out)


What the true mileage is I have no idea. The replacement speedo reads 176K. Original speedo read 186K, but the odometer wasn't working... I'd guess the car is in the typical 200-220K range...


Interior. In shambles when I got the car. I've always been keen on interiors, so that's where I put most of my labor. I essentially gutted the thing, the only parts of the interior still original are the carpet, headliner, and dash frame--everything else I replaced. The seats are BMW's excellent sport seats--hands down the best seats I've ever had. (I had a 535is before this, which served as a donor for the seats, as well as wheels, front air dam, and a few other misc bits). Rear seats, door panels, center console, parcel shelf, and other bits I found, quite luckily, at the junkyard. NB: the interior I 'dyed' red--underneath that dye the parts are mostly tan, but some blue, some black. The dye job turned out excellent, no other word for it. If I didn't say anything, chances are you'd never know. I used SEM paint. Good stuff. Shouldn't be able to dye leather, but I've got no complaints. No signs of cracking, has stayed flexible. Driver's seat does have a tear at a seam, haven't gotten round to repairing...


I dyed the carpet with Jacquard nylon dye in gray. The dash I put a molding on (extremely cracked and faded underneath). Not a perfect solution (the pics show it's already sun warped), but a hundred times better than before. Replaced the instrument cluster, all gauges work, including odometer. Replaced the climate switches, and the center console. The radio is a JVC, nothing too special, but it is ipod compatible, and has Bluetooth for your phone. Just as important as any of this, no strange smells etc from the interior, a non-smoker car, just has that lovely (I think) smell of an old German car: a cocktail of ancient leather, carpet, vinyl. I even replaced the steering column, only way I could get the M wheel to fit ('84 column had a coarse spline fitment) 


All of the windows, sunroof, work. Replaced all the dash bulbs (pet peeve of mine, lights out on the dash). Fixed the door locks (quite the pain), power locks are all fine


Body.  Looks what it is, a CA car: no rust to speak off, paint is a bit faded, the dash and original parcel shelf were quite sun faded. Regarding the paint, I'm probably the only guy on ebay who'll admit it, but the paint definitely looks better in pictures than it does in person. It's OK, but there are a lot of scratches, faded areas, blemishes, etc, that just don't show up in photographs (I tried). But for the low end price scale, I'd say the paint is pretty average, considering. There's one dent (see photo) I took care of, front left corner, can see the mismatched paint. Also the sunroof I redid the paint on (it was cracking and peeling). Both repairs I did with simple spray cans, just a stopgap measure... There's about a half dozen dings (not dents) in various spots around the car; various scratches, etc... 


The front air dam and rear spoiler I added (and as above, painted with spray cans). FYI if anyone's interested, the front air dam is from an e28, actually a pretty decent fit... BBS wheels came from my old 5, they're pretty straight, and the tires have decent tread left on them


Etc. Random stream of consciousness: starter will grind every now and then...all of the essential electric seat adjustments work fine, but the passenger seat has developed a short (blows a fuse when trying to adjust, hopefully just the switch)...one of the fog lights isn't installed (I just wedged it in place for the pics)...windshield has a ding...the front headliner/sunroof panel needs to be secured (the clips are broken; requires a creative solution)...done a tuneup (plugs, wires, cap) but who knows when the valves were adjusted last?...the radio and speedo (i.e. together) had started to cut in and out (once or twice a week), I'm guessing something to do with the radio wiring...battery is newer...time for an oil change--synthetic...I've not spent too much time underneath the car, but it seems pretty dry to me...oil drain plug has some strange piggyback affair going on...the sunroof does leak (a lot actually), needs a new seal...of course the a/c doesn't work, but heat works just fine...cruise control doesn't work...no spare tire, and of course car doesn't have the tool kit...when the engine is warm the idle can fluctuate (kind of surge back and forth) between 1000 and 1300 rpm's; should be as simple as a cracked vacuum hose somewhere...fog lamps aren't hooked up, and are a mismatched pair...the OBC of course doesn't work...the on board check computer works fine, but the 'wiper fluid' light is staying on...speaking of, wiper fluid wash mechanism doesn't work, but I'll include all the used parts to get it to...the brake (fluid) light will flash in and out on the dash, just a short...no overheating etc issues...the front sport seats are from a four door, i.e. don't fold forward...no gas smells from the trunk, replaced all of the vent hoses, as well as the sending unit rubber...speaking of, the inside of the fuel tank looked pristine...side mirrors don't work (electric adjustment)...hadn't gotten round to the headliner (stained, but in one piece); was going to brush paint it with some canvas paint...the badges on the c-pillers are my homage to the e9...


Quick note on the reserve (to forestall the inevitable questions): It's quite reasonable


Title. Clear MO title, in my name


Fine print. Please remember this a vintage machine, going on thirty years old. I've tried to describe the car as best I can, but I'm no expert, and vintage cars always have more secrets than they tell. Please ask questions if anything is unclear, I'll do my best to answer. A $250 deposit is due within two days; balance is due within 7 days, whether car has been picked up or not. If any potential bidder has issue with terms regarding payment, I kindly ask they consider carefully before bidding. Please remember the winning bidders enters into an enforceable contract for sale, not an option to come and tire kick. Any and all shipping, etc arrangements are up to the buyer; of course I'll try to be helpful as I can... Good luck, and thanks.


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Auto blog

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