2000 Ford Crown Victoria Lx & Lots Of Extra Parts on 2040-cars

I purchased this car back in early June, 2013 and had 128,8xx miles on it when bought. Currently it has 133,578 miles on it and I do not drive it anymore. It is started and warmed up every 2-3 days through the winter. The car does have rust but not as much as other same year midwest Crown Vics. Three of the wheel wells have been bondo'd and painted with a similar body color by the previous owner. The two front doors do have some slight rust and paint bubbling on the very bottom edges but the doors do close and seal correctly. The heat and AC work very good.

A couple days after I bought it the transmission died. I had a rebuilt Jasper transmission installed and a brand new transmission cooler installed. I have the paperwork and the transmission will come with the difference of a 3 year/100k mile warranty. I installed a class III/IV Curt tow receiver with a 400lb tongue weight and a 4000lb gross trailer limit. I used it to tow a lightweight trailer with a canoe on it just a couple times. It is wired for trailer lights. If you would like to purchase the trailer feel free to send me a question or message. It's an assembled 4x8 Harbor Freight trailer with a 1200lb capacity. I will include the tow hitch if you do want to purchase the trailer.

The spark plugs and wires were replaced the day after I bought the car back in June. The front rotors and tie rod ends were replaced about a month and a half ago and have no more than 20 miles or so on them. The car received a front end alignment today (1/15/14).

The front seats do show some wear on them especially the driver's side but the power motors still work like new. The front window motors are a bit worn but do work. The driver's side REAR window does not roll down as I suspect it has come off the runners. The car was previously owned by a smoker but I have cleaned 99% of the smell and tar out. The car has been steamed cleaned inside multiple times and the smoke smell is gone. There are a couple cigarette burn marks on the driver's seat and on the carpet, not many though.

I decided not to return all the parts that I bought for the car and will include them with the car. They are as follows including the part numbers.

-Moog Front Coil Springs - 80090
-Moog Spring Seats - K160066
-Moog Sway Bar bushings - K8731
-Wagner Rear Brake Pads - SX674
-Bosch Fuel Pump - 69131
-KYB Gas-A-Just Front Shocks - KG5572
-Fel-Pro Fuel Injector O-Ring Set - ES-70599 (not needed to be installed, bought on clearance)
-Autobest Gas Strainer - F276S
-Ford Sway Bar Bolts/Clips - N806729-S436
-Dorman Oil Drain Plug - 090-115 (was bought for a 2002 Ford Explorer, not sure if fits and is not needed)
-Haynes Repair Manual

The front suspension pieces and the fuel pump do need to be installed. Today the check engine light came on and I had it scanned at Autozone, code P0301, misfire on cylinder 1. I'm 99% sure it's the fuel pump but I will check the engine during the week for spark plug problems or vacuum leaks and will update the ad if the problem is fixed. The car is drivable, it just idles a little rough. There is a crack on the top of the windshield on the passenger side. It is about 6 inches long and I'm pretty sure it's from the week of bitter cold and snow that Chicago received last week. The passenger side headlight is also cracked and is covered with tape. The light still works though.

The fuel tank is 19 gallons but the most I've ever been able to pump into it is about 15 gallons. I'm not sure if it is due to a clogged evap line or canister but the problem never bothered me and I never bothered to look into it.

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On Jan-20-14 at 00:17:23 PST, seller added the following information:

 *******UPDATE*********

I checked the spark plug and wire on cylinder one and there doesn't seem to me anything wrong with them. No vacuum leaks. Like I said in the ad the check engine light with code P0301 is most likely because of the fuel pump. The "misfire" is there only intermittently, car runs very smooth 70% of the time.  The door ajar light is on when doors are closed. I've been greasing the door locks and actuators which makes it go away but he next day the door ajar light comes back on when the doors at closed. I'm guessing it's just because of the humidity in Chicago during the day, then the below freezing temperatures during the night. It never did this before during the warmer months and there is nothing wrong with the doors closing, just letting everyone know!