2003 Nissan 350z (track) With Ls1 & T-56 6-speed (ls Engine Swap / Race / Drift) on 2040-cars
Forsyth, Illinois, United States
Vehicle Title:Clear
Engine:Chevrolet V8 LS1 - 350 HP
For Sale By:Private Seller
Interior Color: Black
Make: Nissan
Model: 350Z
Warranty: Vehicle does NOT have an existing warranty
Trim: Track Coupe 2-Door
Safety Features: Anti-Lock Brakes, Driver Airbag, Passenger Airbag
Drive Type: T56 6-speed Manual - RWD
Power Options: Power Locks, Power Windows
Mileage: 48,000
Exterior Color: Black
To see some of my work look at my last car build:
http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/78872-280z-progress-frame-floors-exhaust-fuel-cell-lots-of-pics/
And the sale of that car and how happy the owner was:
http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/94928-78-280z-with-custom-turbo-f54-engine-megasquirt-lots-of-mods/
Videos:
- Startup of the car with the new engine. There is white smoke coming out of the exhaust because it is buring off the oil I put in each cylinder prior to startup to prevent cylinder wall scuffing. The finished car does not smoke: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ISjt3wlITk
- Startup of the car with the new engine. Notice there isn't a radiator installed so I couldn't run the engine for very long: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EoREX9YO6JU
- Walkaround of the car: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XlPxGiL5gY4
2003 Nissan 350Z Track Edition - Black in color
Vin Number: JN1AZ34E13T019745
Clear Illinois Title
A VIN search will show unknown mileage on the car (and that the first sale of the car was originally in Hawaii ?!?). The reason is that I purchased it without an engine and that is how the previous owner had the title transferred. Apparently the previous owner put a VERY expensive engine in the car and could never make it run correctly - so he sold the engine and car separately. The guage cluster reads ~48K miles and frankly - the car seems like it is nicer than 48K miles old. Please come see for yourself or ask for more pictures.
I purchased the car from the classified section of www.my350z.com:
http://my350z.com/forum/cars-for-sale/530996-2003-black-track-350z-45k-miles-roller-or-complete.html
The build thread I started on the car... but never completed:
http://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/545819-03-350z-ls1-swap-lots-of-pics.html
Engine:
I purchased the engine off of craigslist from a guy in Indiana. It is an LS1 from a ~2000 year Corvette. The guy I bought the engine from said it had ~40K miles on it when it was pulled from a Vette wrecked in the rear. It seems to check out as the engine is in great condition. Rock solid and steady compression across all 8 cylinders (come check for yourself).
Transmission:
The transmission is a Tremec T-56 6-speed manual from a 2006 Pontiac GTO. The car had <$10K miles on it and the seller told me the transmission only had a few thousand miles on it when he pulled it and upgraded to a Magnum T-56. It is a very clean transmission.
- I installed a Tick performance skip shift delete plug (http://www.tickperformance.com/tickshift-173-skip-shift-delete-plug/)
- Buddy club shift knob
Installation Kit:
http://www.sikky.com/view_item.php?id=27&catid=12
The kit includes:
- CNC machined billet engine mounts w/ isolators
- Custom Transmission mount w/ isolator
- 8 quart Aluminum oil pan
- Remote oil filter w/ -10 stainless lines
- 3" Aluminum balanced driveshaft
- Billet Shifter
Also purchased from sikky for the install:
- 1 3/4" Primary / 3" Collector Ceramic Coated Long Tube Headers: http://www.sikky.com/view_item.php?id=152&catid=15
- Power Steering Kit: http://www.sikky.com/view_item.php?id=155&catid=13
- Willwood Clutch Cylinder Kit: http://www.sikky.com/view_item.php?id=149&catid=13
Engine Details:
- I converted the corvette accessory drive to the camaro style (in hindsight - I wish I would've just got a Camaro engine to avoid the hassle). As a result I bought a lot of new billet replacement brackets / pulleys).
- Brand new A/C Pump. It is bolted to the car with the correct bracket and comes with a new belt (not hooked up).
- Brand new Alternator mounted on an alpermotorsports billet bracket (http://www.alpermotorsports.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=69). Serpentine belt is brand new.
- Turn-One Power Steering pump for LS1 conversions in a Nissan: http://www.turnone-steering.com/nissan-ls1-conversion-pump/
- Power steering pump mounted on a brand new alpermotorsports billet bracket.
- B&M Power steering cooler (mounted in front of the radiator)
- New Katech billet belt tensioner: http://store.katechengines.com/billet-belt-tensioner-p2.aspx
- New Summit racing balancer (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-c2500) bolted on with New ARP damper bolt
- Brand new MSD starter: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-5096/overview/ (not sure if this is the exact part number)
- The rear steam ports have been blocked off with a new style front coolant tube (a very common mod)
- New ported throttle body (a guy on ebay sells badass ones) w/ throttle stop fix. The throttle body has brand new TPS and IAC sensors bolted to it.
- Lokar throttle cable with Lokar throttle cable attachment to intake manifold (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/lok-tcb40ls1). The engine was converted from drive by wire to cable throttle.
- New NGK spark plugs with new black MSD plug wires.
- A 'fix' to what I think is the worst part of the LS engines - the coil packs. It includes the Katech Valve covers (http://store.katechengines.com/cast-aluminum-valve-covers-p15.aspx) and coil relocationi kit (http://store.katechengines.com/coil-relocation-kit-p13.aspx). These parts make the LS look like a REAL engine without those silly coil covers. Hands down the most expensive visual mod I did to the engine bay/car - but I think it is worth it!
- Upgraded PCV system to the LS6 style (read http://ls1howto.com/index.php?article=18 for details). This is one of the 'MUST DO' modifications for any LS1 installation. (there is a picture with the intake manifold off showing me making the necessary clearance in the LS1 block for the LS6 valley pan. While I was at it - the intake manifold bolts were upgraded to ARP fasteners.
Chassis:
- New Z1 Motorsports Hatch Struts (http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35/product_info.php?products_id=5336)
- New '06+ style front fender liners (http://zspeedperformance.com/Nissan-03-09-350Z-Front-Inner-Fender-liner-06-new-style-z3363844-cf40a.htm)
- New Zspeed aluminum undershroud (http://zspeedperformance.com/ZSpeed-350Z-G35-V2-Aluminum-Undershroud-Engine-Splash-Shield-zsp20001.htm)
- ZERO rust (no indications of problems).
- The car comes with ONE key and ONE remote (door locks / trunk release)
Cooling:
- New KOYO radiator (http://www.z1motorsports.com/350_g35/product_info.php?cPath=390_395&products_id=2233)
- New Flex-a-lite fans controlled by the LS ECM
- B&M Power steering cooler (mounted in front of the radiator)
- A swith next to the shifter can manually turn on the fans if needed (green LED).
Intake:
- Brand New K&N conical Filter
- Brand New 5-Wire MAF sensor
- Aluminum Mandrel bent Intake tubing
- Quality T-Bolt Clamps / silicone couplings
Exhaust:
- Sikky ceramic coated 1 3/4" primary w/ 3" collector long tube headers.
- Custom Routed mandrel bent steel w/ multiple v-band clamps for easy disassembly
- X-Pipe
- 2 Magnaflow mufflers (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mpe-14239)
- 4" polished stainless angled tips (flowmaster)
- V-Band clamp prior to mufflers so you could make some turn downs and remove the mufflers if you wanted to.
Clutch:
- Brand new steel flywheel (South Bend)
- New ARP flywheel bolts
- Brand new clutchmaster dual friction clutch (it is still getting 'bedded in')
- Brand new slave cylinder w/ correct shimming - shims from tickperformance.com
- Willwood Clutch Cylinder Kit w/ remote bleeder: http://www.sikky.com/view_item.php?id=149&catid=13
Suspension:
- Stock 350Z track edition suspension (springs, shocks, swaybars, bushings, etc). The car is amazing around the corners and I wouldn't want to drop the ground clearance any lower than it comes stock.
Brakes:
- Stock 350Z track edition Brembo brakes (all 4 corners)
- ABS still functions properly
Interior/Seats:
- Brand New Sparco Chrono Road Seats (reclining). The passenger seat is a "normal" size seat while the driver seat is the larger "medium" size seat. I'm 6' 3" tall and 230 pounds and I REALLY like / fit comfortably in the "medium" seat. I've got about 2 inches from my head to the roof (it is very comfortable and would be ok with a helmet in a proper race seating position). It is possible to have much more head room if you don't sit up straight. You can switch the seats around if you'd rather sit in the smaller size seat.
- The car will come with 2 Sparco seat sliders. I didn't install them because I needed all the headroom and legroom I could get.
- The seats are mounted on planted technology brackets. The drivers side is unmodified height, but the passenger side is a HIGHLY modified planted technology bracket (the seat was WAY WAY WAY too high up with their bracket). The brackets were also modified to fit 350 seat belt recievers.
- 2 brand new seat belt recievers.
- The interior is INCREDIBLY clean - please come see for yourself or ask for more pictures.
Wheels/Tires:
- Varrstoen 19" wheels - 10.5" rear and 9.5" front in 'hyperblack' color
- NEW Yokohama Neova AD08 Tires - 275/35R19 for the rear and 245/35R19 for the front. These tires are amazing when they get warmed up (check tirerack.com reviews).
- 'Security' Wheel lugs
- I don't have center caps (you need to order some if you want them)
- I rolled the wheel wells using the professional tools (eastwood fender roller / heat gun)
Electrical:
- Brand new Optima Red Top Battery
- Brand new Oil Pressure Cutoff Switch (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G1438). This is a pretty serious weakness of the LS engine... you can run it without oil pressure. I've 'fixed' that problem by installing an oil pressure bypass switch under the front seat. It allows you to turn on the fuel pump to prime the engine and start the engine (an orange light on the console with light up if you are in 'bypass' mode). Once the engine is started and there is oil pressure - you flip the switch back the other way and if the engine ever loses oil pressure - the fuel pump will shut off. I wired my first car the same way and there isn't a more reliable way to protect your engine in the event of oil pressure loss.
- 100% custom engine harness - routing the wires exactly where I wanted them (see pics).
- Speedinc.com ECM mount
- ECM 'tune' done by ?Iforget?
- New front clear corner lenses
- New "shorty" S2000 Antenna
- All New, Matching Speedhut blue guage faces, tachometer with shift ligths, and water temp guage (mounted in A-Pillar). I did add the Nissan oil pressure guage to the engine so that guage works.
- Grounding, Power, and Alternator wires upgraded to 4-guage with REALLY well done fusing / grounding strategy. The wiring is done really well in this car.
- Battery terminals changed from post mount to side mount.
- VERY, VERY clean wiring for power/grounds and engine sensors (I challenge you to find a nicer wiring install).
- Brand New Bosch Oxygen Sensors (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bch-15703)
Fuel:
- Brand New 255 lph Walbro fuel pump for the 350Z
- CJ Motorsports return fuel correction kit (http://shop.cj-motorsports.com/CJM-Return-Fuel-Correction-Kit-siphon1.htm)
- CJ Motorsports fuel output fitting (http://shop.cj-motorsports.com/CJM-Fuel-Pump-Output-Fitting-CJMfpofitting.htm)
- Dash 8 (-8) Earls braided stainless fuel line (send) and Dash 6 (-6) Earls braided stainless return line.
- All Earls black anodized fuel fittings
- Aeromotive (AEI-13101) fuel pressure regulator - red anodizing sanded off to keep the black/silver look in the engine bay.
- Earls Fuel Filter - mounted under the car in the trans tunnel - plumbed before the engine
- Stock fuel injectors - cleaned w/ new filters and O-rings
- Dash 10 (-10) fuel rails (ebay - best deal performance)
Other:
- The car will come with all the receipts / manuals I've got
- The Haynes manual for the 350Z
- A manual on how to do an LS1. I just used it for help with the wiring.
Problems with the car:
- There are a few dents in the roof and hood (see pics/video). I think these could be fixed by a competent paintless dent repair place.
- The passenger side sideskirt is damaged just behind the front-right wheel (see pics/video). It is hard to see unless you are looking for it (I even missed pointing it out when doing the walkaround video). I don't think the front-right fender is damaged (it doesn't look like it anyways).
- There is a small piece missing from the front fascia just in front of the driver side front wheel (see pics/video). It is hard to see unless you are looking for it.
- I have not installed heat or A/C, but they would not be that difficult to add. I didn't add these because it would be a waste if somebody was going to turn this car into a race/drift car. The car will come with the 350z A/C condenser and accumulator. The heater lines were cut off inside the car so the firewall could be 'cleaned up'. Heater lines could be run from there to the front right of the engine where I currently have the coolant 'looped' on the engine.
- The 'pop out' cupholder that is just in front of the passenger's left knee isn't there (there is a hole in the panel where you could bolt in a new one if you wanted to order a replacement - I recommend Courtesy Nissan in Texas for all parts business - especially if your local Nissan dealer sucks as bad as mine).
- Because the car was converted to cable throttle - the cruise control and vehicle dynamic control (VDC) do not work.
- The only guage in the instrument cluster that doesn't work is the water temperature guage - but I added a matching speedhut guage for water temp to the A-Pillar.
- I don't have center caps for the wheels and tire pressure monitoring doesn't work.
Best parts of the car:
- How nice the interior is
- The quality / cleanliness of the installation
- How the engine looks in the engine bay compared to other LS swaps
My comments on the build:
- Watch this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XlPxGiL5gY4
- This is a VERY solid car built with incredible attention to detail and no sacrifices for reliability.
- This would make an awesome race car (take out some weight and add a roll bar), drift car (take out some weight, add safety equipment, add stiffer suspension), or daily driver (add heat and a/c and fix a few cosmetic issues). It is a solid car ready for somebody else to make it theirs and enjoy it.
- I get asked often why I'm selling it. I'm selling for the same reason I sold my 280Z - I like working on them more than I do driving them. I've got somebody who wants to PAY me to build their car for them so I need to make room in my garage for that project.
- I have represented the car as accurately as I possibly can. I hope this is evident as I even point out the problems with the car in this listing. If there is something that I haven't mentioned in this listing then I've either forgot to mention it - or I don't know about it. PLEASE come look at it for yourself before purchasing as I WANT you to be excited about your new car.
- The car is being sold without a warranty of any kind.
- I WANT you to come and look at the car prior to the purchase if it is in ANY way possible. I want you to be MORE than pleased with the purchase. PLEASE ask questions and ask for more pictures / video.
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