Selling my baby. 2nd owner, bought the car with 10k miles on it. Car has freeway miles and has been cared for by me perfectly, all oil changes, etc...I have looked at other Mazda3 on Ebay and in person, and this is by far the nicest 05/06/07 you will find.
Body-in excellent condition, paint is smooth, wax is fresh, paint is still very glossy. Car always received frequent clay bar treatment and Meguiars's wax products. Has a few TINY dings as any car with 50k miles, but again better than any other I have seen. Front bumper has many stone chips due to the highway driving I always did. Touch up was performed, and under the front bumper lip it was real bad and I had to touch that up too. Bottom line is the body is in excellent shape minus the few small flaws.
Interior-excellent condition. Does have the typical interior panel scuffs a used car will have, but has no glowing defects. All panels have always been wiped down with Meguiar's interior care products which really does a great job of keeping the panels fresh and no no fading AT ALL (the product has UV protection, make a difference!) This is original factory leather, NOT one of the cheap after market kits. It looks more like 25k miles on the car based on the seats. Thanks again to Meguiar's Leather Care products!
Drive Train-engine and trans is perfect, please bring your mechanic to verify and car is availble to drive. Only issue is the air pressure warning light for the tires may turn on after you have driven about 20 miles. You would not know this if you test drove the car, but I am a fair person being honest with you. The cause of this is a faulty sensor in ONE of the wheels which is common in the Mazda3 and Mazda6, and the only way to take care of it is to start swapping out sensors in each tire until the problem is solved. It has never bothered me enough to start spending the money to do that. Important note-the transmission DOES have the updated shift software. Most people do not know Mazda issued a TSB( Technical Service Bulletin) about this issue and if you do not update the software (yes, they charge you for this) the transmission will shift hard from 1st into 2nd especially, and it is very bad for the transmission and tranmission mounts.
Audio/Entertainment System-The system would retail installed for a touch over $9k for everything. Please do not try and tear down this pricing and pick it apart, it is real numbers. I am involved in the mobile electronics industry, it is all real pricing. I know many shops that would charge even more for this system.
1. The woofer enclsoure-The enclosure was built in place of the spare tire well. The spare tire well was cut out of the car and reinforced with aluminum angle iron. The enclosure was then installed partially under the car and bolted to the angle iron braces. The entire seam around the enclosure was then sealed with 3M windshield installation adhesive-this stuff is bullet proof! The enclsoure was then coated in multiple coats of marine grade fiberglass resin, both inside and out of the enclsore. Then the enclosure had aluminum sheeting screwed to it to act as a rock/debris deflector, and then the entire thing was coated in a very thick coat of industrial undercoating. WAY over engineered, WAY overkill, but has been WAY perfect since I installed it 2 days after I bought the car. The rop of the enclosure was then smoothed and painted with factory Velocity Red paint by a body shop. Over the woofer is a VERY heavy duty metal grill that will protect the woofer and is strong enough to support anything I have but back there like 5 gallon buckets of paint, etc...Over the amp is a piece of 1/2" plexiglass, again WAY overkill but I could not risk damaging an amp by cutting a corner. After the grill goes on over the woofer, the factory floor mat goes back in. The entire system is mounting in the floor at the exact hight as the factory floor, so no room has been given up.
2. The woofer-JL Audio 13w6-Of all the woofers I have had, this is by far the best compromise I have ever had. The most output with the cleanest, tightest bass, only drawback is the the woofer retailed for $600-$700 for just one, and to get the woofer to do what it can do, it needs a large, high quality amplifier. The trim ring on the woofer was also painted to match the body.
3. The amp-Phoenix Gold just released the new Elite series of amps, this one is one of the first in the country. I had a pair of JL Audio amps in the car which were great, the Elite blew them away-but it should, is is a single amp that sells for $1600-$1800. I have never had an amp that has been as solid as this amp.
4. The front speakers- I have had no less than 6 sets of speakers in the front doors of this car, some as high dollar as $900 a set, the Phoenix Gold Elite6.5 that are in there now are by far the best sounding speaker I have had in there. The tweeter is VERY clean, and the woofer is the real deal-cast fram, engineered cone, etc...
5. Rear speakers-rear speakers are rarely a big deal, so I have had the same JL Audio VR650SCi in there since I bought the car. They are reliable and work well for rears.
6. Navigation-Is the new Kenwood DNX690HD--has bluetooth, HD Radio, Ipod hook up, etc...all of the bells and whistles. Not much to say other than it is one of the best navi on the market.
7. Sound deadening-the entire car is coated in a layer of deadening material from Stinger (Roadkill). I will NOT own a highend subwoofer with out layering the car in this product. Do you want to hear the woofer or the car rattle? When you listen to the system and we crank on it, sure there are a few rattles, but not many at all. This product is a game changer.
8. Cap-Stinger cap to help the amp get more current and voltage when playing the system louder. Best cap on the market, period.
9. Wire and connects-Main power wire is JL Audio 1/0 ultra heavy duty wire. It is ran under the car and encased in reinforced conduit. The power wire enters the car via a dual gasket compression grommet. The RCA cables front to reat are new Stinger ultra high end cables. Do I really believe an ultra high end cable makes a difference, I'm not really sure to be honest, but then I put the cables in, if I have $9k of gear in the car, and the cable can make it sound 1% better, I would be stupid not to spend the money. So there is no short cuts on this system
10. Power upply-in the glove box is a Stinger 150watt power inverter (has a wall plug, plug in your laptop when driving, etc...)
11. Remote start system-is the Code Alarm Pro 5550 SST. It had awesome range to begin with, but still, when in the mall, in a parking garage, a restaraunt, and a million other places, a little transmitter can only get you so far. Now the system is networked to my smart phone. I can start the car, unlock the doors, etc..from anywhere in the word. SO many times I go out to my car to grab something and my keys are in the house, no biggies, push a button on my phone, the doors unlocked. And the company that builds the smart phone interface also offer monitoring for a small charge-records speeds, distance traveled, where the car is by seeing on a computer since it tracks it via vehicle tracking software. Not a big deal but I love this, the transmitter has a micro USA charging port on the side, so if you are driving and notice your battery is low, plug your phone charger into the transmitter and charge it while you drive.
I also have all of the factory stereo gear and every box/manual for all of the grear except the rca cables.
About my price on the car, there is how I came up with it. It is the nicest Mazda3 on Ebay. The nice ones are selling for $8-$10k. So I a fair price is $9k. The electronics would be $9k, cut it in half to be fair so it is $4500, then cut it in half again to make it a bargain, so I figure $2250 for the electroncis, so the price is $11,250. I do not want to list my car over $11k, so I $10,950 looks better.
Payment terms-cash only. No bank checks, personal checks, etc...Must be cash like hundred dollar bills. I have never sold a car on Ebay, but my boss has done so about 10 times and he gave me advice. Tell about the good and the bad on the car (I did both). ONLY take cash, and be detailed. So, cash only.
Thanks for looking and I hope you enjoy my car as much as I have. It has been a great car, with an amazing package and I will be sad to see it go. I bought a new car and it is time to start building again--with much of the same gear going into the new one!
Jason 267-325-6119 text first if possible
Mazda Mazda3 for Sale
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Fri, May 29 2020
The Mazda Miata would not be my first choice for a road trip car. Would probably be in the bottom 10, in fact. The interior fits me like a coffin, the seats pinch my back and the amount of passenger legroom is laughable. It's not exactly the most serene car, either. But hey, there are sadists out there who may want to venture somewhere in it. I work with some of them. So, as they were the ones who requested this, here is the answer to the question: how much luggage fits in the Miata's trunk? Alright, so on paper, the Miata RF has 4.48 cubic-feet of trunk volume. The regular soft top Miata, the one you should absolutely get instead, has 4.59. Does that different matter? Probably not. However, when talking about trunks in this diminutive size range, the shape is the ultimate factor. For instance, the Porsche 911's 4.6-cubic-foot frunk is basically the same as the Miata's, yet it's narrower and deeper. My BMW Z3's trunk is 5 cubic-feet, yet it's wider, longer and much shallower. On paper, they'd seem to be the same, but you can't fit the same items within them. Usually, I'd now list all the bags I have to test, but dude, in the words of Jay Mohr in "Go" ... This content is hosted by a third party. To view it, please update your privacy preferences. Manage Settings. Go (8/8) Movie CLIP - It's a Miata (1999) HD Here's what I could fit ... This bag is 26 inches long, 16 wide, 11 deep and you'd have to check it in at the airport (remember those?!?). It BARELY fit inside the Miata. The ever-so-slightly larger gray version of this bag I have did not fit. By contrast, it slid very easily into my Z3 and as you can see (below left), the remaining area was far more easily accessed due to the wider trunk opening. However, this bag wouldn't fit at all in the 911's frunk as the space isn't wide or long enough. Alternatively, shown above, I could stack two carry-on roller bags (one 24L x 15W x 10D, the other 23L x 15W x 10D). This time, the tight fit came from height. By contrast, these two would fit with room to spare in the deep 911 frunk as Zac Palmer discovered with his similarly sized bags (below left). They also fit in my Z3 (below right), but were side-by-side and just BARELY fit due to the trunk's much shallower depth. Basically, the Z3 was worst here.
Sat, 11 Jan 2014
Road & Track has taken on a Miata project. One hell of a project, if we're honest. You see, the Miata in question, a 1989 example in Mariner Blue, isn't a high-mileage Mazda that the publication intends to fix up, or make race-worthy, or try to flip or give away to a reader or something. No, it's a rather typical well-used NA, with a hefty 325,000 miles on the clock to-date that the staff plans on driving until the six-digit odo reads all zeros again. One million miles or bust (or both, most likely).
Procured for the bargain-basement price of $1,600, complete with seat covers that "really do look like muppet pelts" (according to Zach Bowman) and a bondo-filled love tap on the nose, the NA Miata actually looks like just the sort of fun-machine that a real driving enthusiast would pick up to get some cheap thrills in. The R&T team already has some interesting plans for the Miata, including a potential run up Pikes Peak and loaning it out to readers (or perhaps your author...). Click through to read all about it.
Wed, Nov 16 2016
After examining the teaser photo and poring over spy photos, we knew that the 2017 Mazda CX-5 would adopt some design features from the larger CX-9 and Chinese-only CX-4. What we didn't know, though, is that the CX-5 would look like a miniature version of the CX-9. From the outside it's obvious the design is all new. The front of the SUV looks nearly identical to that of the CX-9's. Gone is the cutesy, roundish face in favor of a more angular theme. The headlights are slimmer, while the grille ditches the horizontal bars for a mesh pattern. Mazda calls the design theme Kodo - soul of motion, and the original 2013 CX-5 was the first production model under this mantra. View 12 Photos The changes at the back are less drastic than on the CX-5's new beak. The black trim that underlines the rear fascia is less prominent and the taillights looks leaner, but it's harder to tell the differences between the old and new model. Mazda says the CX-5 will be available with two engines here: the Skyactiv 2.5-liter gasoline engine and the Skyactiv-D 2.2-liter diesel (the Skyactive-D 2.0-liter, currently only used on Sport models, has been dropped for our market). We don't have specifics on power and torque yet, but in the old CX-5 (and current Mazda 3) the 2.5-liter four-cylinder generates 184 horsepower, while the diesel makes 173 hp and 310 pound-feet of torque. We expect front- and all-wheel-drive options, and of course we're hoping that the six-speed manual (previously on the base, front-drive model only) stays around as an alternative to the six-speed automatic. The interior follows the template of recent Mazdas, with the infotainment screen sitting on top of the dashboard with a control knob located aft of the shift lever. We'll have more information on the 2017 CX-5 at the vehicle's debut later today at the 2016 Los Angeles Auto Show. Related Video: