1970 Dodge Charger - 509cu Inch Stroker on 2040-cars

First off let me start by saying that the pictures uploaded to EBay aren’t showing 100% correct color wise. The car isn’t nuclear green, it's sublime green. It’s a bit lighter than what is showing up in some of the pictures. My wife and I aren’t professional photographers so it will have to do for now. Though we will take pictures of anything else you would like to see. So if you’re interested and need more pictures of something please let us know.

We also want to be upfront and let you know that the car is not a show car. There is a nick and scratch here and there from driving it. My wife and I buy cars to drive, not to trailer from show to show. We do not however drive the car in snow. We have been caught in the rain from time to time, but we don’t mind as the wipers and lights work great. As soon as we get home we dry her down with shammies. The body is solid and is not a rust bucket by any means. We have pictures of the floor when we redid the interior. The original green was still showing along with a few pieces of paper that were under the original carpet.

All the work that is mentioned in this ad has been done in the last year (2013-2014). The motor and transmission has about 200 miles max and we have receipts, pictures and eye witnesses to prove it(Unlike the person that sold it to us and told us pretty much the same thing). My wife and I are selling it because we feel the project is complete and we want another project and potentially something we could drive in the snow without worrying about ruining such an important piece of American history.

As of this posting we have stroked the low compression 440 to 508 cubic inches. We had the block magnafluxed, sonic checked, hot tanked, and bored .040 over and then zero decked. We then dropped in a 4.250” forged Eagle crank with forged Eagle “H” 7.100 rods. We are using -4.47cc ICON 2618 aluminum forged flat top pistons. We used total seal file to fit rings, Clevite main and rod bearings. All of this was race balanced by Hughes Engines before being shipped out. To complete the short block we put in a Comp Cams hydraulic flat tappet cam(XE285HL). We are using Johnson lifters and Smithbros 7/16” pushrods. On top of the short block we put on a set of Edelbrock Performer RPM 84cc heads. We had the heads checked out by a local machine shop for spring pressures etc. They are not ported however. We topped the heads with a dual plane Edelbrock Performer RPM intake. We are using a Proform 950CFM double pumper carburetor.  We replaced everything on the block such as the fuel pump, oil pump, water pump, etc. The only thing that came with the car when we got it is the block itself.  We are using TTI 2” primary headers that are currently connected only to a set of Borla high flow mufflers. We do however have the full TTI x-pipe and muffler back exhaust that will be going with the car. We even have a set of maganaflow mufflers that we took off because we personally thought it made the car too quiet. We are using an MSD AL2, MSD Blaster 2, Firecore distributor, and Firecore50 wires for the ignition system. We are using a brand new 3 core aluminum radiator with 180 tstat and have no issues with overheating even under load. We also have a dual electric spal fan shroud that hasn’t been installed yet. Though that will also be going with the car. The thermostat has been installed in the water pump housing. The car has been tuned for the altitude here in Colorado Springs which is 6,000ft. We have all the jets for the carb so it can be tuned at sea level as well. The car runs well and besides a broken reluctor in our last distributor we haven’t had any issues since the rebuild last summer. We are using Brad Penn oil for the added zinc additive. We haven’t had it on a dyno, but similar setups have made 550hp 650tq at the crank at sea level.  It definitely pulls pretty hard and we know we are losing a pretty good amount of HP from the altitude we are at.

Shortly after we rebuilt the engine the 727 started to act up. So we took that out and rebuilt that as well to take the abuse of the big stroker. We used billet servos, new heavy duty bands, and installed a reverse manual valve body with low band apply. We put in other parts as recommended by John at CRT which included things like a deep oil pan, ultimate sprag, and brand new pump. All parts for the transmission were purchased from John at CRT. Small plug for him, but he’s a great guy and doesn’t mind helping out when he has time. We appreciate his help with the rebuild process. When we rebuilt the transmission we also replaced the torque converter and went with a 9.5” PTC converter with a 3400-3800 stall. We thought it would be too big for the street, but it drives great. Since we upgraded the converter we also added an external transmission cooler that sits in front of the radiator.

After the engine and transmission were done we started on the suspension. The front suspension consists of Hotchkis torsion bars, tubular upper control arms, strut rods, shocks, and tie rods. QA1 supplied the tubular lower control arms and the tubular k-frame. DoctorDiff supplied all the brake parts. We upgraded to new knuckles with bigger slotted and drilled rotors and calipers. We replaced all the brakes lines from front to the rear axle housing. We added a new lightweight master cylinder as well. We replaced the power steering box with a 20:1 manual steering box from Firm Feel. The idler arm and pitman arm were replaced with moog replacements.

The rearend is a 8 3/4 ” suregrip with 3.91 gears. It has been serviced with Royal Purple differential fluid with the LSD additive.

During the suspension upgrade we decided to move the battery to the trunk. We used 2/0 gauge welding wire protected in a heavy duty wire loom from the rear to the front of the car for both positive and negative connection. We also resealed the floor and replaced all body plugs. We replaced the carpet as well.  We also added an original AM radio that has been modified with an AUX plug. So you can plug in your phone or MP3 player and listen to anything you want. The dash speaker was also replaced along with every light in the car to include the headlights. The wiring harness in the dash was replaced with an M&H harness and the rear light to front harness was replaced with a brand new M&H harness as well.

As a side note, we removed the A/C compression, condenser, radiator, and hoses, but we have all that if someone wanted to put it back in the car. We like power more than we like A/C. All the wiring and under the dash and components are still there. One more note... we forgot to put the reverse lights back in when we took pictures. They will be put back in the car before shipped or picked up by the new buyer.

I think that’s enough to at least give you an idea where the car is at. There are tons of other misc things we have replaced like the speedo cable etc, but we don't even remember everything ourselves. If you have any questions at all please let us know. We have receipts for all parts that were put in the car and will be giving the folder to the next owner of the vehicle. We welcome third party inspections. We will allow test drives to those who are serious and come prepared to buy the vehicle.

Thanks!