2009 Dodge Challenger Srt/8 2,999 Miles Filled With Upgrades on 2040-cars

2009 Dodge Challenger SRT/8 6.1 Hemi with 2000 miles on it and re built with the following goodies installed.

Suspension Upgrades

Hotchkis Sway Bar and Lowering Kit

Hotchkis? Stage I Kit for the 300C SRT8 consists of two products engineered to work together for everyday road and track day handling.
Note: Not for vehicles with load leveling suspension
Stage I Kits include Coils (#19105), a Sport Tubular Sway Bar Kit (#22101)
Fits rwd 300C SRT8 & rwd Charger SRT8
Spring Rate:
Front: 280lb
Rear: 650 lb.
Description:

Hotchkis? Stage I Kit for the 300C SRT8 consists of two products engineered to work together for everyday road and track day handling.
Note: Not for vehicles with load leveling suspension
Stage I Kits include Coils (#19105), a Sport Tubular Sway Bar Kit (#22101)
Fits rwd 300C SRT8 & rwd Charger SRT8

Spring Rate:
Front: 280lb
Rear: 650 lb.
SRT8 Drop: Front: 1/8" Rear: 5/8"
SRT8 Drop: Front: 1/4" Rear: 3/4"
Handles and rides beautifully. Great improvement in looks and performance!
Steve Strope, Pure Vision’ Noted custom car builder.

Top of FormTop of Form

Hop Not Rear suspension full Kit

Includes Stage 1, Stage 2, and the Adjustable Sway Bar Link.

These items working together will yield the best results in controlling your six speeds wheel hop. In fact, we're so confident that we can Cure Your Six Speed Challenger's Wheel Hop that we back our products with our limited 30 day money back guarantee. Please see the "Special Offer announcement" at the top of this page for the details.

 Stage 1 is a must have for anyone seeking that performance car driving experience. Your Dodge Challenger, Charger, Magnum, or Chrysler 300 will drive and handle like it's on rails. Although, not all automatic driven cars experience extreme wheel hop, they do still share the same cradle movement issues. This unwanted movement at the cradle also minimizes the effectiveness of other suspension upgrades such as aftermarket springs, coil overs, stiffer sway bars, etc. The Hop Not Stage 1 kit should be your first suspension upgrade for your best results.

Stage 1 consist of four CNC machined spacers, two special flat washers, and a tool/sleeve that’s provided for easy removal of the OEM plates located at the front cradle mounts. The proprietary spacers are designed to attach to the bottom of each rubber cradle bushing/mount and eliminate the movement that the rubber mounts allow at the cradle or sometimes referred to as the rear sub-frame. Each spacer is machined to extremely tight tolerance levels to ensure that the small tapered lip of the spacer seats against the inner edge of the sleeve found in each OEM rubber mount while bottoming out against the inner spacer at the same point.

Dodge Challenger, Charger, Magnum, and Chrysler 300 owners with automatic transmissions can enjoy the same handling improvements as manual transmission owners by eliminating unwanted movement felt at the rear cradle. The boat rocking sensation felt as the car is rocked back and forth at highway speeds is eliminated with this kit. This upgrade is a great addition to your Challenger’s suspension, even if you are currently using aftermarket sway bars, coil overs, lowered springs, etc.

Consider adding the adjustable sway bar link when installing Stage 1 on a six speed car.

Warning: the machined spacer kit must be installed as a set. The front spacers are a different design than the rear. Never drive the car without all four spacers installed. Installing less than the full set will allow part of the rear cradle to move at the ones that are still rubber only and cause failures at the ones that are rigid mounted. Please contact us if you have any questions.

Stage 1 must be installed prior to adding Stage 2 in any application.

 Stage 2 is designed to enhance Stage 1 once the rear cradle movement is addressed. Expect tight, performance car handling and wheel hop control like you've never experienced before. You're missing out on one of the most dynamic performance improvements you can add to your vehicle if you think this is strictly a six speed issue. Although, automatic driven Challengers, Chargers, Magnums, and Chrysler 300 don't suffer from the extreme wheel hop that most six speeds vehicles are experiencing, they do all share the same unwanted movement at the rear cradle bushings/mounts. The boat rocking sensation mentioned in the Stage 1 summary and the suspension flex are  keeping you from enjoying the full potential of your vehicle's IRS (Independent Rear Suspension) even if you've already added stiffer springs, sway bars, coil overs, etc. We accomplish this level of performance with our proprietary CNC produced brackets that allow us to attach a horizontal stabilizer from each wheel hub to the rear mounting area of the cradle itself. The rear cradle frame is by far the strongest item under these cars. All late model Dodge Challengers, Chargers, Magnums, and Chrysler 300 have a five link IRS (Independent Rear Suspension) that offers a comfortable ride, but makes performance handling and wheel hop or sometimes referred to as power hop difficult to control. These IRS systems have ten rubber bushings per side, twenty four in all if you include the four that are used in the cradle mounts. Stage 1 eliminates the movement at the four cradle bushings/mounts, but then it's up our Stage 2 kit to control the flex of the IRS components. Although, these cars don't suffer from the same type of axle wind up that the older versions did, they do endure a tightening or flexing of all the IRS arms, links, and rubber bushings that must be controlled. Stage 2 works with the normal up and down motions of the suspension components with minimal effects on ride quality. Stage 2 allows the IRS arms, links, and rubber bushings to tighten, but then it briefly holds it in avoidance of becoming a repetitive hop as traction is gained and lost.

 Each lower aluminum bracket goes through a five cut CNC process then receives a special bend that allows us to take advantage of two mounting points at the wheel hubs for maximum strength. You could work your cars suspension from full extension to fully compress and won't have any clearance issues...we already have. The upper stabilizer mounting brackets start with the same rear machined spacers used in our Stage 1 kit, then we weld on a special CNC produced angle bracket and locating pin that utilizes existing holes in each side of the cradle's frame.

Plant the rear tires like never before. In fact, you'll have the ability to launch harder than ever, even if you launch with wheel spin because our Stage 2 Stabilizer kit will make the tires bite within a few feet. Understandably, the type and size of the tires you're using will have an effect, as well as road conditions and the level of power you're putting to the wheels, but you'll experience major traction and handling improvements in any application as compared to without having the Hop Not products.

Stage 2 is now available for lowered vehicles. Just be sure to select the correct item when you check out.

Please note; the standard Stage 2 Stabilizer Kit and the Stage 2 Stabilizer Kit For Lowered vehicles will not interchange. Only install the Stage 2 Stabilizer Kit for Lowered Vehicles on Vehicles that have been lowered and the standard Stage 2 Stabilizer Kit on vehicles that have a stock, unchanged ride height/stance. If you've lowered your vehicle any and haven't replaced the OEM shocks with shorter versions you may have to push the suspension up enough to install our Stage 2 Stabilizers at the time of install because although you've lowered your vehicle, the stock shocks will let the suspension hang to the full extension while the tires are off the ground. Also, be aware that the stock shocks are the limiting/stops and they only have a certain amount of travel before they will bottom out. For example, a stock SRT Challenger shock sits at about 2 and 1/4 inches as measured on the shock body itself on a car that has not been lowered and maxes out at about 5 inches of travel, so if you've lowered the car two inches you'll have very little travel left before the shock is bottomed out. This may cause a very harsh ride and eventually cause the shock to blow out or cause other issues. With this in mind, it's best to replace the OEM shocks when you lower your vehicle accordingly.

Please see our FAQ section for additional tips and information about this product.

This adjustable sway bar link is a key part in controlling your cars wheel hop. It works with Stage 1 to ensure that all is “not equal” to the rear wheels. The link is preset at 1/4 ” longer then stock length but, should always be compared to the stock link at each install. Do not exceed 1/4 ” shorter or longer in any application.

This new Hop Not adjustable sway bar link is based on an OEM link; only threaded, and then a 3/4" hex connector is added to make this unit adjustable. The hex connector uses 12mm right hand threads on one end and 12mm left hand threads on the other for easy on car adjustments. A small groove marks the end with the left hand threads.

The Adjustable Stabilizer Link should be installed at the right front location. This creates a slight weight difference at the rear wheels/tires to work along with Stage 1 and or Stage 2 in controlling wheel hop. The adjustable link is pretty much intended for six speed cars unless you have the need to even out or preload your cars suspension system.

 Total package for six speed Challengers

Exhaust

Solo Performance 3” exhaust with High Flow Cats

Raw American muscle on the outside and a refined, non-invasive performance exhaust note on the inside. The dramatic sound difference from outside to inside is accomplished by months of research and development plus specific product design for the 2008-PRESENT Challenger SRT-8.

All of us at Solo Performance are very proud to bring to the Challenger community our free-flow MACH X-3 exhaust kits. These kits are a 3? mandrel bent stainless steel converter back exhaust. We have had a lot of fun designing for this very “challenging” car and would like to thank Ontario Chrysler, London Chrysler, Taylor Chrysler, Bruno and Kevin for the use of their cars and their invaluable feedback.

The Solo Mach X-3 exhaust kit works equally well on the automatic or standard SRT-8.

Exhaust Kit Specs

Front Muffler Assembly
3? mandrel bent stainless steel exhaust pipes combined with our dual in dual out stainless steel MACH X-3 muffler. We tried several exhaust configurations on the SRT-8 and when nothing worked well enough we designed our MACH X-3 muffler specifically for this exhaust kit. This muffler is all that we hoped it would be for this car!

Right and Left tail pipe assembly using Solo Quad tips
3? mandrel bent stainless steel pipe with a ball and flair front connection (where the tail pipe meets the front muffler assembly) to help with exhaust tip adjustments. Our tips are dual, staggered, beveled exhaust tips with a 3? inlet and dual 3 1/2? outlets that were specifically designed for the Challenger.

Right and Left tail pipe assembly to be used with stock exhaust tips
These tail pipes are exactly the same as the ones described above except they have a downsized rear ball (2 1/2?) which mates up to the flared stock exhaust tip. The stock “collar” must be used as well.

J-Pipes
Much research and development has been done by Solo Performance to perfect our J-Pipes that are part of the SRT-8 tail pipe assemblies. These J-Pipes eliminate bad frequencies that occur at certain RPM ranges. We have developed and used this technology on several of our exhaust kits over the past two years, they work incredibly well. The adjustment on the J-Pipe is critical; we have found a “factory preset” position that should work on most SRT-8 Automatics. J-Pipes will come set at 3? from the end of the J to the overlap ridge. Just as a trombone has different notes with slight movements of the “slider” so do our adjustable J-Pipes. Less than 1/2? of adjustment can mean the difference between a kit that annoys you to a kit that’s perfect. At the time of this offering we have all 5 of our SRT-8 exhaust kits that are on cars without any bad RPM ranges. Some may need to adjust the length of the J if they have a “bog” or a bad RPM range. All you have to do to get rid of these is loosen the top band clamp on both sides and lengthen or shorten 1/2?. Once you find the preferred direction you adjust from there in 1/4? increments. Adjust both sides evenly.

Engine Upgrades

Performance Heads done by Andy Underwood @ Performance Werks (I think there work stands for itself)

New Cam specific to head package

Performance Push Rods

Performance Werks 85mm Throttle body

Cold Air Intake

Diablo Trinity Sport tuner which I will sell with the car (it has been tuned by Johan M. @  diablotoona@gmail.com I have all the emails and data that support the tune and it is loaded in the Diablo)

It was built with handling in mind and has lots of torque and spins to the red line great! It is road race ready!!

This Challenger is fast and has very low miles. It has not been raced has not been on a Dyno, and has not been beat on. It looks like the day it came off the show room floor. It has every option except for Navigation and Sunroof.  It was built for fun, but based on the mileage it has not been driven and it’s time to let it go. Anyone is welcome to come see it and inspect it. Basically it is a brand new car with all the goodies already done. Buy it and drive it or buy it and race it. I am not selling it because I need the money I want to build another project which for me is what the passion is. With that said I will not be giving it away, sorry, but some of the emails I get on things, is nuts. I have some of the original suspension parts and the Cats, but I used the heads and throttle body on a truck I was tinkering with.

I have a clear title, so it is ready to go - no dealing with a bank and waiting.