1967 Chevrolet Impala Pro Street on 2040-cars

For your consideration I have a 67 Impala Pro Street car. This is a nice build on an absolutely rust free body, there are no rust patches anywhere. Engine is a 1968 396 bored .030 oversize effectively making it a 402. Features a GM steel crank, Comp Cams Mutha Thumper roller cam, Comp roller lifters, push rods and guide plates and Comp full roller rockers. Edelbrock aluminum intake with Holley 850 double pumper carb. Ignition is a new stock type HEI distributor. the compression is 9:1 so it runs fine on regular unleaded fuel, nothing exotic needed. Trans is a TCI Street Fighter TH400 with 2200 stall Street Fighter torque converter. Coated headers with X pipe and Flowmaster mufflers. The Chassis is all Chris Alstons Chassisworks. Includes a Chassisworks back half with 4 link fully adjustable suspension, Fab 9 axle housing, Strange center section with 5:13 gears, a spool and Strange axles. The spool is definitely not as bad on the street as many would have you believe. It corners well, just don't hammer it on a corner as it WILL come around on you. Front framework is Chassisworks Street Fighter setup with tubular upper and lower control arms, manual rack and pinion steering with QA1 adjustable coil over shocks on all 4 corners of the car. The side rails of the chassis are original GM but all other components have been upgraded. ALL chassis and suspension fasteners are grade 8 with nylock nuts. Weld wheels front and rear. Front tires are virtually new BF Goodrich, rears are 33 X 19.5 Micky Thompson Sportsman Pros showing nearly full tread. Brakes include Wilwood manual master cylinder, Wilwood front discs and calipers and Ford rear calipers and rotors. The brakes on this car have an awesome pedal and stop the car in a hurry. Car features RJS 5 point harnesses on both seats. I have not installed the crotch straps as I don't like using them and didn't want them flopping around on the floor, they are included if you wish to install them. The harnesses are dated April 2012 so there are several years before they expire. The driveshaft is a custom built unit with heavy duty U joints. The cooling system consists of a 2 row aluminum radiator, clutch fan and shroud. It works well, I don't think I have ever seen it over 190 degrees, and that was a 90 degree day this past summer in traffic. The rear wheel well openings have been radiused by 2 inches for tire clearance. All rear tubs and trunk floor are steel, not aluminum; welded, not riveted. All chassis work and metal fab was completed by Automotive Design Center in Posen IL, I have over $20,000 in receipts just for their work. Fuel cell is 15 gallon foam filled with sending unit so the gas gauge works. The interior is pretty much stock with the exception of late model Chrysler bucket seats and an 8 point Chassisworks roll cage. The side door bars are removable for street use. The side door panels and rear side panels are originals and while still respectable, they could stand to be replaced to freshen up the interior. While not perfect show quality, the black base coat / clear coat paint on the car is pretty damn nice. Paint has been sanded smooth and buffed to a wonderful luster. The body work is straight and shows well. There are some flaws in the paint, a couple chips and scuffs. Just stuff you would expect from normal use. Overall, I would say the paint is better than 90% The aftermarket fiberglass hood does not fit very well but I think that is just the nature of the beast. All weatherstripping in the car has been replaced this past summer with Soffseal brand gaskets. The bumpers and majority of the trim are original but all look quite nice. No peeling chrome or dings in the trim. There is one dent in the rear bumper, if you look close at the pics you should be able to pick it out. This car is sinister looking in black and makes an obnoxious statement when driving. It drives quite well, but without power steering or power brakes it can be a bit of a workout at times.The steering is straight with no pulling and the brakes stop solid, again with no pull to either side. It is noisy inside, if you have never driven a pro street car, let me describe it. There is NO rubber mounting in the rear suspension, all joints are solid steel joints so every bump in the road gets transmitted into the chassis and cage. While there are bead rolls in the rear tin work to help stiffen it up, it still rattles quite a bit. There is no sound deadner in this car. While under cruise conditions, the exhaust is fairly mellow but when you get on it, it sure does make some noise. The car runs and drives very well. I am sure the carb would benefit from an experienced tuner. I am running it as it was straight out of the box, save for idle adjustments. When you stab it from a dead stop, it hesitates pretty bad. Get it rolling about 3-4 MPH and stab it and this thing moves out. I haven't tuned a carb in over 15 years, I am a fuel injection guy, and no longer have any jets or pump cams so I figured I would just leave well enough alone for now. While not brutally fast due to the fairly small engine, it is still a car to be reckoned with. From the seat of my pants, I would guess high 11's in the 1/4 mile. Remember, this thing probably weighs in at 2 tons! Most everything electrical functions properly. The horn doesn't work. The relay clicks and I have tested the horns and they work so it should be a pretty simple diagnosis, I just never got around to it. The hazard flashers do not function, no clue as to why. All turn signals, running lights, headlights, brake lights and reverse lights function properly. There is no radio in the car, you probably couldn't hear it even if there was one. There is no heater or air conditioning. The holes in the firewall for all of these items have been welded shut and smoothed over for a nice sanitary appearance.The speedometer works but I don't think it is very accurate at higher speeds and it does have a tendency to bounce around a bit. Overall, the car is pretty clean but there is no doubt that it would benefit from a good detail job. I am simply not a toothbrush cleaning kind of guy so for me it was always good enough. I haven't had the balls to add up all the receipts but I am quite sure there has been well over $40K spent on this car, not including time and labor except for the professional chassis and tin work. This is a fully registered, licensed and insured car with clean WI title that is street legal. If a cop really wanted to be a prick, you could probably get hit with a citation for no tailpipes or horn but otherwise everything is good to go. If you want into the pro street world, you couldn't replicate this car for more than twice the reserve price. I am selling it as I have simply lost interest and am much more into a cruiser type car at this point in life. This car has the chassis to go much faster than it does right now, it simply needs a larger mill and maybe some nitrous. Sky is the limit! Read the description and look close at the pics and you won't be disapointed! I am available evenings after 5:00 PM and most all weekend. Please feel free to make arrangements to come and view the car in person. I wish to be as open and honest about it as I can. I am located in Manitowoc, WI.......about 3 hours straight north of Chicago and about 5 hours east of Minneapolis. I encourage you to come and check it out in person!!


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