1969 Volvo 144s on 2040-cars

*** SELLER EDIT ***

Just to be clear, this car operates very well. I have no reserve. $2001.00 would win this car. $2000 is only the opening bid because it is the absolute lowest I can take for this car.  Please note that the below description is just my attempt to be honest and make sure the bidder knows exactly what they are getting.  I have seen these cars get bid on well into the 4k range without even a quarter of the description I have put in****

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Up For bidding is a 1969 Volvo 144S. I am told I am the fourth owner of this car, which I purchased in New Hampshire. The car still has a valid NH inspection sticker in the windshield. Car was originally purchased in Pennsylvania, from which I have the title. Neither Connecticut nor New Hampshire issue titles for vehicles this old, so will be sold with bill of sale only and original Pennsylvania title.

The general specifications for this car can be found via any internet search, so I'll just post the basics before I get into the inspection notes. This car is powered by a cast iron, pushrod 4 cylinder, 2 liter inline engine, running through a Borg-Warner 3 speed automatic. Four wheel disc brakes function well powered by a vacuum assisted unit, which is the only power option available on this model (no power steering, locks, windows, or the like were available as options). Famed for their safety and durability, this antique Volvo features 3 point seatbelts in the front, crumple zones, a collapsing steering column, aforementioned four wheel disc brakes (which includes a hydraulic system that renders brake failure very unlikely) and a safety cage built into the body (watch any old Volvo commercial, they're as entertaining as they are informative)

This car is slow, they always were, it's a safety feature. This particular car makes it up hills and onto the highway without any discomfort, but it IS NOT a hotrod. Cruising at 70mph is no problem, and the kick-down feature of the auto transmission works exceptionally well, but this car is not going to knock your socks off with speed. What this car does offer is a classy, very comfortable, stylish ride that is as practical as it is good looking. The trunk is huge, the engine simple, the body is in good shape, and it is perfect to use as-is or, with a little time and effort, could be a car show winner. I would not hesitate to use this car as my daily driver.

So with that said, I did an intensive walk through of the car, while fixing and correcting a few odds and ends, and came up with the following. My goal is to be as honest about this car as possible, so please take my report in stride about how important certain aspects are to you.

EXTERIOR:

Body is overall very straight but has many small dings from age. Front fenders have a few repair patches where fender meets the front valance. Both fenders are slightly dented at front of wheel arch for some reason. Both bumpers are very clean and shine nicely (polished aluminum) but have dents and flaws. Bumper overriders are clean and mostly scuff free, but the mounting hardware connecting them to the bumpers are starting to bubble and could use replacement/ repair to make them sit more flush. All the lenses on this car are original, and all but two are in great shape. Passenger side brake light has a crack, and passenger side rear marker light is cracked around mounting screw, both these damaged lenses are fully operational. The paint is a respray, and, due to poor preparation work, the paint is starting to peel away from the car around the windows and window water channels, exposing the original color (light blue). The current paint has little to no clear coat left, though it is presentable at 10 feet. The body has been largely spared from rot, except for a few small areas. There are holes to the rear lower portion of the rear door jams. One has been repaired, but not with metal, the other remains there, about 1 inch in diameter. The spare tire wells had holes but were replaced with metal. The bottom front and rear portions of the passenger side wheel arch has some evidence of body filler when you feel inside. There are a few small patches on the rear inner wheel wells, but was evidently done professionally and is only noticeable if you really get up close and personal.

The body trim on this car was originally chrome but a rubber upgrade was added in the 80s, popular and expensive at the time. The car comes with a roll of replacement rubber to maintain/repair this trim work (probably enough to redo the car).

The rubber window gaskets, which are specific to this model, are in very good shape and are free from cracking and are very pliable still. The aluminum trim around the windows is likewise in very good shape and can be polished to shine. The windshield and rear window aluminum trim does have a few dents from window replacement in the past. The rear license plate shroud has a chip. The classy one piece aluminum grille is in very good shape, with only one small dent in the lower center portion. Volvo brand locking gas cap is functional and key included. Original dogdish hubcaps and trim rings, original rims. Hubcaps are in very good shape, trim rings have some dents and evidence of curbing, mostly on rear drivers side. Rims are in very good condition but could use repaint. Tires are Classic All Season 165/80/R15 which are in good condition and have approximately 70% tread left.

Headlights have been upgraded to halogen models, very bright, almost annoyingly bright. All emblems are in excellent shape, save for the Volvo hood ornament which could use some cleaning up. All windows, which are specific to the 144 model, are in very good shape, the rear window is correct but is probably new as I found some glass when I took out the interior to inspect the floor. The windshield has fogging around the edges and a little wiper rash, but you can use the windshield from any early 240 model Volvo. The doors all operate perfectly, door handles shine nicely but are pitted. One shock from the trunk lid is missing and I haven't yet replaced. Car comes with pretty mahogany stick to prop the lid open.

INTERIOR:

Door cards are bright blue, tear free, and show little sun damage. Driver's side needs new backing bug hangs straight, and door pocket needs some new stretchy material sewn in. Door cards and seats are not original to this vehicle, and came from a 73 or '74 Volvo. The seats are a rare “beach chair” style. Multicolored stripes over light blue. They are faded, but faded rather evenly. The vinyl backing of the seats match the door cards perfectly, and are hole and sun damage free except for one hole to the left of the driver's butt. They show well, but the rear seat back needs some intelligent alterations to fasten properly to the chassis. Dashboard has NO cracks, and shows little to no fading. All gauges work properly. Heat works and is strong, but, because of a faulty valve, flow to the heater core must be turned off manually under the hood. Heater fan and all knobs work. The only downside to this is when cruising with the heater valve open, heat will still blow into the cabin unless you shut the valve off. (I have attempted to modify this with the temp cable, in theory it works, the cable just needs to be fastened appropriately.) All push/pull switches on dashboard work, two have been “repaired” with machine screws. Dash face shows nicely, vinyl has come unglued at left hand plate, needs simple spray adhesive. Fuse box is in excellent shape and is unmolested save for one wire splice for radio. Headliner has No holes or stains. Sunvisors have not “marshmallowed” but show age and could use a good clean. Steering wheel has some age cracks either side of horn, horn works and horn push is in very nice shape. Rubber floor mat is original to vehicle, in front it shows very nice with minimal problems, but has deteriorated in rear footwell. The rear shelf has been temporarily repaired with new white vinyl. I don't like the way it came out, but it is not glued or anything. Original black carpet material is included with car. Rear shelf board is in very good shape and straight. Center transmission tunnel in front is supposed to have fabric on it as well, original fabric is included with sale, needs cleaning but is in very good shape, I think it looks cooler without it though. Dome light is operational. Original seatbelts through out three-point manually-adjusted belts in front, three sets of lap belts in rear. AM/FM Dual brand stereo is not original, and must be connected to front speaker, though it does work, I removed the ugly aftermarket speakers from the rear of the car (previous owner). Rear view mirror is original, shows aging around edges but reflects and adjust well. Has no day/night provision. Car takes about a cup of water on passenger footwell when parked downhill in heavy rain. Rubber mat catches it all though.

ENGINE/DRIVETRAIN/EXHAUST

Original B20 motor, no unusual sounds or sights. Most original red paint remains. I do not know if engine has ever been rebuilt, but with regular oil changes and maintenance, this engine has been proven to last a very, very long time. Five main bearing crankshaft. Only thing I know it needs are new valve stem seals (puffs of smoke on startup and when you get NASCAR with the throttle). YOU CAN NOT just start the car and drive. It's old, and carbureted, you must let it warm up for a few minutes before taking off. Plan your morning commute accordingly. I have steam cleaned the engine bay to remove all junk, and found that, aside from under the brake master cylinder, there are no holes or large rusty areas. Brake fluid eats paint, and I suspect some got under the master cylinder and caused surface rust. Automatic transmission functions as it is supposed to, though it is a British unit, so it does make the occasional clunk sound when shifting, but nothing worrying, cruises at a comfortable RPM when on the highway. Kick-down feature makes it easy to climb hills. Upgrades include: cannon intake manifold and modified exhaust manifold, Weber 2 barrel 32/36 DGEV with manual choke. Petronix electronic ignition, flamethrower coil, IPD sparkplug wires. Engine does not appear to leak oil. Exhaust has been replaced between downpipe and tailpipe with standard muffler and cherry bomb resonator. Not loud, but has a friendly 60s growl to it. The brake booster and brake master cylinder have been replaced with new correct units. Carburetor is currently tuned to offer higher MPG rather than power. The secondary throttle only opens when really mashing the pedal. It can be tuned or upgraded for higher power, I like it as it is though. Only issue is that you have to keep the rpm up with accelerator pedal when first warming up in the morning, for, like a minute. Car starts easily on cold days with choke engaged.

UNDER THE CAR: Shocks look to have been replaced within the past few years, new rotors in the rear, brake pads look to have only one season on them. No holes, NONE. The undercoating is flawless and was possibly a factory option upgrade, I tried poking through it, metal throughout. After washing it looks almost new. All the suspension/steering parts look and function correctly. Steering is tight with little to no play in wheel. Sometimes the steering makes an audible “clunk” when turned hard from left to right when stopped, but does not happen when driving. Manual steering again, it's hard to steer when stopped and I don't recommend having to parallel park this car every day. Drivers rear brake caliper seems to have a bolt in it where a bleeder valve ought to be, I do not know why, but I tested the brakes on that wheel and it behaves as it should. These calipers are still available cheap even from your Autozone-style stores, I didn't replace as the brakes have never given me a problem.

PHEW, you made it to the end. All in all, the car is nice, but old, 45 years old, to be exact. So, there are things to be repaired, sounds that are funny, bits that aren't right, and so on. I have described, to the best of my ability, everything that I have noticed with the car that I wanted you, the hopeful bidder, to be aware of. I am sure I have missed some things that are good and bad about this vehicle, and I am more than willing to check out and report on any items you may be interested in before bidding.

I am not available to show this car in person. A paypal deposit of $500 must be made within 24 hours of bidding close, or car will be offered to next-highest-bidder. Full payment must be made via paypal within 3 business days, or it will be offered to next-highest bidder. You must arrange for your own transport. Car could easily make it anywhere by it's own legs, I drove it 130 miles when I first bought it with no issue at all. I will not handle any cash, checks, or anything aside from a paypal transfer of funds. Bidding has opened at $2000 with NO RESERVE. Highest bid gets it. I am only selling this car to help pay for school, otherwise I would keep it for many years. If, and only if, you NEED to talk to me on the phone about this car, message the seller and I will do my best to oblige. I will answer all emails promptly and succinctly to any of your queries. Thank you for reading my ad, and happy bidding!