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Up for sale is a 1999 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport with 238,000 miles on it. It is a 5 speed manual, all wheel drive vehicle that is also the sport model, so it has the WRX hood with the hood scoop and also a roof rack.

Here's the story:

I bought this almost one year ago from the original owner with 184,000 miles on it. The owner had replaced the clutch (throwout bearing, pressure plate and 20lb flywheel), preformed a tune up and replaced the catilytic converter with all of the exhaust pipes back from it (about a $1,500 job, and happens to all Subaru's notoriously). The check engine light was on (and still is) but I got around it at the time of inspection (thank you shady auto shops) with a little bit of extra cash. The code was reading the cat code (P4020) and was told that when the new cat was put on, the wrong clamp was also put on, so some excess air was flowing through the cat, throwing the code. Again, the check engine light didn't bother me as it didn't affect performance, nor did it prevent me from getting it inspected.

Fast forward to now:

I've put almost 60k miles on it (current mileage: 238xxx) exclusively highway miles. I travel for work and all over the northeast, from here to Pittsburgh and to as far south as Baltimore. I have done normal maintainance to this vehicle, including doing oil changes every two weeks (that's right. every two weeks). I've done ball joints, transaxles, put new tires on this back in October (about 50% tread left) and have aligned the vehicle almost as frequently as I've gotten oil changes.

THE BAD:

Before I explain what's wrong, let me preface this by saying that this has been reliable up until a few days ago. I've never broken down in this, it has always brought me to where ever I've had to go, even as far away as Canada.

For the past few weeks, I've been getting some hesitation when I try to accelerate, especially coming from a full stop into first gear, say from a red light. So much hesitation, in fact, that the check engine light blinks. One it gets past the hesitation, it runs and drives normally.

I had the check engine light analyzed and found out that there is a misfire in cylinder #2 (P300 code). I did a full tune up, and the misfire is still occuring. I got a second opinion on the matter and on the same day, the car developed a rod knock. It knocks when you put your foot down and goes away at higher rpm. My mechanic says that the knock is probably crankshaft related and that a rod will throw sooner rather than later.

Upon hearing this news, I returned the coil pack (it was like $160 bucks) and drove it for 2 more days before parking it.

In conclusion, the car runs, but you will need to address the rod knock and the misfiring issue to continue driving it as it sits. I'm selling the car for parts, but you could (in theory) drive it for a while before it throws a rod. It could die today, it could die a year from now, who knows? It will also need front pads and it burns some oil in top gear, but thats to be expected for a car with 238xxx on it.

I have a clean title in my hand. The car still has plates on it, so if you want to come and drive it a little, drop me a message with your contact info and I'll get back to you. If there are any questions, feel free to ask me at any time.

SOLD AS-IS. NO RETURNS.

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1999 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport For Parts Or To Fix- Running And Complete on 2040-cars

Subaru Outback for Sale