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Common Dodge Ram 1500 vs. Chevrolet Silverado breakdowns

These two trucks are famous for their ability to get the job done. Still, even the toughest vehicle can have mechanical problems at some time. What if we match the Dodge Ram 1500 and Chevrolet Silverado head to head? Let's find out more about common repairs for each model. Also, learn some tricks to pay for car repairs. Clunky Steering Both Dodge and the Chevy owners sometimes notice bumping and clunking when steering. This might be more noticeable when driving over bumps. The cause is usually different in each truck though. In the Dodge Ram, clunky steering is more likely due to a defective lower ball joint. Replacement costs around $300 - $400, parts and labor. Clunky Chevy Silverado steering is probably a steering rack failure. This problem appears more often in trucks with over 90,000 miles. Silverado steering rack repair will run you up to $1,000 or more. Starting Woes For the Chevy Silverado with over 130,000 miles, you might notice trouble starting. This problem may appear occasionally at first, but it typically gets worse. Excluding a weak battery, the culprit is usually the starter. Replacement will cost you around $330 - $500. Of the total cost, $90 is for labor only. Now the Dodge Ram might make a ticking sound when starting, especially on models with over 94,500 miles. The noise often disappears after the engine warms up. These symptoms may indicate a broken exhaust manifold. Repair costs range from $800 - $900. Burning Oil & Gas Gauge On The Blink Sometimes, the Dodge Ram burns oil much faster than normal. In models with over 125,000 miles, this often points towards a leaky intake manifold gasket. A knocking sound may also appear with acceleration along with possible engine misfire. The cost to repair is around $200 - $300. The Chevy Silverado has its own surprises, especially when you've filled the gas tank but the gauge still reads low. Or the needle fluctuates widely from low to full while driving. In trucks with over 120,000 miles, it's likely due to a faulty fuel sensor. You might need a full fuel pump replacement, which can cost you up to $820, parts and labor. Water Inside And Poor Heat The Ram 1500 rear window has been known to leak. You might notice the back seat and floor wet after a rainstorm. This is more common in trucks with over 65,000 miles. Resealing the Ram 1500 rear window costs around $150 - $250.

Ram shows its trucks are for work and play

There are no shortage of pickup trucks at this year's SEMA Show. The popular platform has been ripe for customization for years, so it should come as no shock that Ford, General Motors and Ram are all showing a fair few trucks in Las Vegas. From the Ram camp, we have two offerings - the Ram Sun Chaser and the Ram Dually Case Work Truck.
The Sun Chaser opts for a beach theme, similar to the Fiat 500 Thalassa. Based on the Ram 1500, the Sun Chaser wears Vibrance Orange Blast and Brilliant Black paint, and sports a Mopar roof rack, while the Ram Box system features a water tank and a shower head allowing beach-goers to rinse off before getting back in the truck. A flip-up, seat-back tailgate makes sitting on the back of the truck a bit more comfortable, and it's the kind of cool feature we can see becoming an optional item in the future.
The Sun Chaser mods are rounded out by 17-inch deadlocked wheels, a two-inch lift kit and a Mopar exhaust for the 5.7-liter Hemi V8. The cabin, meanwhile, sports Katzkin leather seats and even more Vibrance Orange Paint.

A beginner's guide to plowing snow with a heavy-duty truck

I live in a desert, so the only things getting plowed around here are mud flows and brewer neighbors. But I enjoy machinery and haven't plowed any snow since a "loaded" truck meant one with A/C and a CD player, so I jumped at the chance for a plow primer in a Ram HD on a Canadian airfield. Running a plow is like welding – the basics come quickly but experience pays dividends. The first thing to deal with is a frequently changing horizon because, stout as they are, even three-quarter-ton heavy-duty trucks will move up and down in front considerably with a 600-to-800-pound plow hanging off, and fast plow hydraulics rival some low-riders for bounce effect. Getting going is easy unless you forgot blocks and the plow froze to the ground, rookie. If you have to drive to your plowing assignment, blade height needs some experimentation to find the best cooling airflow; if you think sub-freezing temperatures negate that concern, remember you've installed what amounts to a 20-square-foot air brake up front that the truck has to overcome, and blowing snow could block some cooling air passages. Whether it's a "straight" blade or V design, always have it tilted to the right lest you catch a hidden post, solid mailbox, or edge of a snow bank. Most plow operators I spoke to rarely exceed 45 mph in transit because of cooling, front suspension travel, and common sense, and you should go even slower if you don't have some ballast like chains, extra fuel tanks, or a salt spreader to balance the load on the back. With trucks' relatively slow steering and all that weight up high, oversteer is best avoided. With a little clean space to get a run, stick it in Drive to gather momentum and lower the plow simultaneously to float, where the weight of the plow rests on and lets it run along the surface. Momentum is good until you hit something you didn't know about, at which point the plow's breakaway systems limit damage but your truck could still hit something big; caution never hurts. Start out at 10 to 15 mph, depending on consistency and depth, making a clean wave off one side. If you have to push it straight, as you slow coincidentally raise the blade at the bottom of the pile to shove it up higher. Carry too much speed here and you'll stop with an unceremonious thud. Common mistakes cited among a few experts were people pushing banks of snow rather than plowing it, and rushing the shift between Drive and Reverse, throttling up before the shift is completed.