1970 Impala Kingswood Station Wagon Supercharged Hot Rod on 2040-cars

Advertising:

VIN: 164460j143402 Year: 1970
Number of Cylinders: 8
Make: Chevrolet
Model: Impala
Trim: Kingswood
Warranty: Vehicle does NOT have an existing warranty
Drive Type: RWD
Options: CD Player
Mileage: 100,000
Exterior Color: Green
Interior Color: Green
Disability Equipped: No

Condition: Used: A vehicle is considered used if it has been registered and issued a title. Used vehicles have had at least one previous owner. The condition of the exterior, interior and engine can vary depending on the vehicle's history. See the seller's listing for full details and description of any imperfections. ... 

 If you are looking at this, thinking that I am nuts and contemplating some sort of hate mail over the price for an old, green, station wagon, then please click out of this ad. There are cheaper wagons out there. Now, if your curiosity is getting the better of you, or you want something different, and powerful, then please read on.

This started life as a green, 9 seater, Kingswood, basic Impala wagon, with a 350 engine, A/C, and power assisted drum brakes, and power rear window.

It no longer sports the 350, or the front drum brakes. See below for what it now is:

Engine: 496 Big Block Stroker. Started as a 454, is now .060 over, with a Scat 4.25" cast Steel stroker crank, 6-3/8" rods, forged ceramic coated SLP pistons with teflon coating on the skirts. Rotating assembly balanced by Scat before shipment of parts, including the balancer and SFI flexplate.
 Using "out of the box" Edelbrock Performer RPM Aluminum, oval port heads, secured with ARP Head studs. Comp Cams Nitrous-Grind hydraulic camshaft, lifters, double roller timing set, push rods, and Magnum roller tip rockers (used roller tip, to use short valve covers, due to brake booster clearance).
 Weiand 177 Super Charger. 850cfm Holley carb (modified by myself) with billet primary metering block, 50cc primary acel pump, and boost referenced power valve. MSD 6AL ignition box, MSD Pro Billet distributor, MSD Blaster ignition coil. Hooker Super Comp headers, and 2-1/2" full dual exhaust. Aluminum (generic) water pump (that is the ONLY generic part in this build!), and Bosch high torque mini starter.
 Griffin aluminum radiator with stock type integral trans cooler. Mechanical heavy duty fan, and Lincoln Mark VIII "mammoth" electric fan as back up. Old school, Holley Blue, (noisy!!) Electric fuel pump and matching regulator. Fuel tank feeds from lower rear corner, into -10 line, to filter, to pump, to -8 line, to regulator, to -6, to last filter, then carb. Although it does not run out of fuel during a pull, it could use dual -6 lines from the regulator, for the carb.
 Engine is 8.9:1, never had it on the dyno, and basing it on the same engine used in the "Battle of the Boost" article (you can find on line, and is VERY similar in build), should be somewhere in the 625hp to 660hp output. It has lots of torque, and makes this wagon go...

Drivetrain:
 Transmission is a 200-4R overdrive... Yes, thats right, This little, iddy-biddy transmission (almost) does the job. Has a performance build, by a local builder, a Midwest converter, and a Bow Tie Overdrives bracket and tv cable. The trans feels good, with a nice crisp shift until... When put under heavy throttle, it does NOT want to engage into 2nd gear until you let off the power a bit. Normal driving it still feels good. This is the only real problem with this car, and have been driving it this way for almost 2 years.
 Has custom built 3-1/2" driveshaft (I twisted the original). 12 bolt GM rear, with Auburn Posi, and 3.73 gear set. The rear is supported by the Metco Motorsports billet aluminum upper and lower control arms, and centered by an adjustable UMI panhard bar. Power finally hits the ground through the BFG 275/60/15 Drag Radials, mounted to Weld Super Lites.
 Front suspension is newer tubular upper control arms, and rebuilt lower control arms with new bushings, and ball joints. Steering linkage is starting to get loose, and I will include new tie rod ends with the sale of the car. Not installed... Has a quicker ratio power steering box, with nice, custom hoses, to the original style power steering pump. Car steers straight, and for a big old wagon, handles well.
 Has after market, disc brake conversion, with drilled and slotted rotors. Stock rebuilt rear drum brakes. Brakes could use upgrading, but they do stop ok.

Body:
 Recently replaced both front fenders, and wheel wells. Has VFN 4" cowl hood. Doors are all solid. Frame is solid, Floors are solid. Gate is solid. The doglegs (area between the rear doors and wheel wells) are in need of repair. The lower edge of the quarters are a bit thin, in need of a little attention. Roof rack will support most mother in-laws... All the glass is good, one small chip in the windshield. Rear power gate window works.
 Other than the dash, the interior is stock. The dash consists of an Auto Meter/Stack dash display which monitors water temp, oil pressure, speed, oil temp, fuel level, volts, fuel pressure, has built in warnings, and of course the tachometer. Also has an Auto Meter boost/vac gauge, and an Auto Meter Wide Band AFR gauge.
 Wiring is not a mess, and has an added on fuse box, so the original is not overloaded. Has a stereo deck with CD player that happens to be hooked up to shit speakers. Really needs an amp, and good speakers (if you really care about the radio). Wipers work, heat works, turn signals, and lights all work. A/C is partially there. All the hard to get stuff is still in the car and not butchered. The compressor, lines, and condensor are not on the car. I do still have the original compressor, but you are on your own with the condensor and lines.

Performance and other stuff:
 I have not had this to the track. Just like I never dynoed it. I have had it on the 2010 Hot Rod Power Tour (before the blower install), and has even landed in the Street Sleepers book. This car runs hard when you are into it, and cruises so nicely on the interstate. You would never guess you had that big of an engine when cruising, You can carry on a converstion, drive single handed, and single footed (single footed once the engine warms up from a cold start, sorry no choke). The AFR's are good, especially for a big, carbureted engine, Could not ask for better. Fuel mileage is still double digits. The engine has roughly 3 or 4 thousand, trouble free miles. The blower about half of that. I have always run Royal Purple oil in the engine. I installed a "stock" oil pump during the build, and it runs 50+ psi when cold, and 20-ish at a warm idle. Comes right up when RPM is raised. Temp stays low 150's to 160's when cruising down the road in cooler summer weather,  and on hot days, it can get into the 190's when in traffic. I have only used the electric fan a handful of times to keep it under 200, and those were HOT DAYS in slow moving traffic.

Now that I have bored you with most of the details, the reserve is $11,000 (for those of you who would have e mailed asking). If I do not sell it, I will keep it, build a TH400 for it, and add a Gear Vendors Overdrive next year. If you want to trade, it would require you to spend some cash, and I would probably not give you what your car is worth. Only because I really do not want another car. Thanks for reading.