1984 Chevy Short Bed 1 Ton 4x4 Lifted Lift Gmc Monster Truck Mud Rock Crawler on 2040-cars

 If you want a very very well built short bed with the best of everything then this is the truck for you.  It was built really tuff but not treated to any abuse. I will try and list any and all upgrades, maintenance done, flaws….etc below. But if you any questions or concerns don’t hesitate to text or call me at 785-317-1249.

1984 Chevy/GMC shortbed 4x4

Chassis
-Dana 60 front one ton axle, new bearings, seals, gears which are 4.11, poison spider cross steer arm, new steel braided brake lines, new banjo fittings, new dual steering stabilizers

-14 bolt full float rear one ton axle, new gears 4.11, new oil, new bearings, new welded blue torch fab differential cover, new disk brake conversion done, new rotors, new pads, new brake lines, and upper steel braided flex line too, also has a Auburn limited slip locker.

-drives shafts both front and rear are new and built by a good driveshaft shop. and have new u-joints installed

-TH400 transmission rebuilt with high performance clutches and steels, shift kit, and b&m 2400 stall converter, and new fluid

-NP208 transfer case, rebuilt with new seals, bearings, and chain, new fluid and new polyurethane mount, the transfer case is dropped down 1 inch by solid metal spacers not cheap pipe or a weak bracket. Done right

-the truck has dual gas tanks. I’ve only used the one and have never used the other. I think the switch is bad or a wire is disconnected. Never really messed with it.

Steering
The frame area by the steering box typically is a failure point on these trucks and this one was in good shape with no cracks but I went ahead and strengthened this area a little by adding a brackets that goes to the cross member so that not as much stress is put on the frame rail. All grade 8 hardware was used. The steering box is new and is a 2wd GM steering box and a F150 drop steering arm was installed for the cross steer conversion. Connected to the steering arm DOM tubing with weld bungs professionally tig welded and 7/8 seal heim joints were installed with 5/8 grade 8 bolts holding to the steering arm on the box and the axle. Steers really nice

Lift
10 inch new super lift front springs, new dana 60 3/8 thick spring pads, new stud kit, new u-bolts, at the top of the springs I installed new polyurethane bushings and fully greasable bolts. Add 3/8 thick shackles that are 1” taller than stock, new upper bushings as well and I increased the size of the bushing and bolt because that is another common weak point in these chevy trucks. For the rear I did a 4 inch reverse shackle kit that was built of 1/4 inch plate and bolted on with all grade 8 hardware, then a 1/4 thick steel 5” shackle, and a add aleaf to the factory springs and a overload spring.  New 3/8 rear spring plates, new u bolts,  and new shocks on all 4 corners. So there is no blocks in this lift system. It was done right. I think the total lift is about 11 inches in front and back.  If your wandering how it rides, its about like any older lifted truck. Don’t expect it to ride like a Cadillac with 11 inches of lift, 1 ton axles, and 40 inch tires. But for drivability I would say, and this in my opinion (I have owned a bunch of these trucks that are lifted), this truck doesn’t ride as bad as others I’ve owned and I have had some ride better but I will say this truck drives the best out of all of these type of lifted up trucks that I have owned.

Wheels/Tires
Wheels are 17x10 eagle alloy black with beadlock rim. Not a true beadlock wheel just the appearance. New black ribbed lugnuts. Tires are 40x13.50x17 and they have maybe 3,000 miles. I would say tread is about 95%

Engine
350 crate engine, less than 10,000 miles, edelbrock package which was the cam, intake, and 600 edelbrock carb. Headers, into new full MANDREL bent exhaust to new true 40 series flow master mufflers. Not eBay knock offs. The exhaust was very expensive but well worth in my opinion, sounds great and tucked up exactly how instructed the hotrod shop to do it. And engine Runs real good. On the engine it has a newer power steering pump and lines and also all new AC compressor, evaporator, seals, lines, and charged and blows cold. Also the heater in this truck blows hot and the defroster works both hot during winter and cold during summer when AC on. The engine also has new motor mounts. Blue Optima battery.

Body
The inner fenders and bed are coated with bedliners. The bumpers are factory chevy bumpers. There is a small scuff on the front bumper and a small dent on the rear bumper but overall the bumpers are in pretty good shape. The rear came off a suburban because I wanted a tighter to the body type bumper and not a big nasty heavy step bumper. The interior has a new covered seat, new carpet, new dash/cover. Its not a new dash but this is not a typical cover it is very tight and clean fitting and no one would no it wasn’t a new dash unless I pointed it out. All guages were disassembled cleaned and re-installed, all guages work, even the original clock works!! The factory radio is gone and a CD player was installed but the volume button is kind of tricky to work. Heat, AC, Defrost work good. This truck does have power windows and power locks. The windows work but the drivers motor I think is worn out. It works but very slow. The power locks sometimes work and and sometimes just click. So if there is any down fall about the interior I would say the power locks need some work and maybe a new drivers window motor, and  a new windshield would make it in my opinion perfect. The windshield has a long crack in it. Not spiderwebed but a long crack that goes across it. Now onto the exterior. The reason I started with this truck is because I wanted a rust free or almost rust free short bed with power windows and locks and build it to be awesome, very stout, done the right way type of truck. When it came to the outside paint it did not turn out the best, and yes I paid a paint shop to do it.  They did use base coat clear coat paint. Not some tractor paint. It is glossy, no or very little filler, and the color is a dark blue but there is a bunch of imperfections in the paint. it’s a decent body and I am not a body guy so I had it done by obviously not the best paint shop. Its not horrible but I think this would have been a really nice 20k dollar truck with the right paint job. I tried to zoom in on some of the photos so you can see but mostly the buffing wasn’t done the best and the clear is very splotchy. Like I said the pictures don’t show it very well.

Overall this truck is not perfect and I don’t claim it to be but it is a very well built strong 4x4, and it drives, steers, and stops real decent for as big as it is, NO RUST or very mi-nute if any other than a little on the bed floor about the size of a 50 cent piece that was stopped by the bed liner, and maybe under the truck there is some surface rust spots but the cab supports, rockers, and floors that are typically rusty are in great condition. I love this truck and hate to get rid of it but I’m on a pretty tight budget right now with trying to build a new house and I could use the extra money.  Maybe later down the road in life I can buy another one to build. I haven’t put this truck up for sale locally yet but I plan to this week so if someone offers me what I’m willing to take for it I will end the auction and sell it. I have a ton of money in this truck and a ton of time in it. Its ready for cruising, turning heads, and/or 4 wheeling. Everything done to this truck I listed above was done less than 1,000 miles ago. Except for the motor. It was the first thing to get upgraded and replaced and that was about 8-10k miles ago.

To list the major flaws again….. because I am a honest seller and I want a honest buyer to purchase this. Power door locks work but not all the time, power windows work but drivers is very slow, dome light comes on once in a while and then goes off ( I think the door popper moves while driving and it make it think the door is open so the light comes on. I usually just open and shut door and it goes back off. Paint is glossy and a nice dark blue but it wasn’t painted very well in my opinion.

I will not pay for shipping but gladly help in make sure it is loaded on a shipper trailer if someone chooses to ship it. I’ve have used a shipping company once and I was very please with the outcome. It cost about $800 for me to get a antique car from California to Kansas. Just to give you a Idea.  Lastly, I will require a $1,000 non-refundable fee towards purchase of the truck paid to me through paypal or wire transfer or cash with in 5 days of auction end. Truck needs to be paid for in cash or bank cashiers check (no personal checks). if you do a money order/cashiers check i will take it to to my bank and they will contact your bank to make sure you have the money and its all good before you ever own this truck. truck must be pick-up within 14 days of auction end. Don’t even waist my time if you only have a finger that can click BID and not pay for what your bidding on.  And if you think I am going to sell this truck for 5k then don’t bother bidding either.
Any questions or if you want more info about truck text or call me at 785-317-1249

Thanks.