1993 Range Rover Classic County Lwb on 2040-cars

 This is a 1993 Range Rover Classic LWB that I've had for about 4 years, and driven it about 20k miles. It was shipped here to CT from Idaho, and has NO rust problems at all. MANY more photos available via e-mail.

I maintained this rig to be a fun trail truck, and the body has suffered dings and scratches as a result. The biggest is the left rear door, which has a BIG ding in it, but does not affect the door seal or door operation at all. I bought it this way from Idaho, and I don't even notice it anymore. Kind of adds character.

Some common chronic problems with this model are present:

Headliner is sagging. Currently tacked up in places with common thumbtacks. Works great.

ABS and TC light are on, and have been for a while. Both systems worked great for about a year after I got it, then the light came on. I have not determined which wheel sensor is causing it.

Seat ECU has been un-plugged on the driver's side. Passenger side works. Seats were swapped in from a pristine '95 LWB, and the driver's seat and mirrors went haywire soon after (acting on their own as if possessed). I've read this is a corroded battery in the ECU under the seat. I jumped the driver's seat manually to adjust to my position, then left it there. Seat motor DOES work.

Suspension swapped (by me) over to 2" OME springs and Bilsteins. Rides better than my '04 Grand Cherokee. Suspension air tank still in place.

A/C compressor seized (bought it that way, never bothered to install a rebuilt one).

Heater core replaced by the PO, heat COOKS.

Ignition module re-located by me to the driver's side fender.

STACKS of maintenance receipts from the PO.

Does not have original stereo (came that way), but I installed a Dual head unit with integral iPod dock and Bluetooth, and wired in (2) moveable box speakers in the back. The upper cargo speakers are still in place and work, just not hooked up. The front door and A-pillar speakers still work. Sounds nice.

Rear subwoofer box converted to a useable tool box. Spare removed from the rear to add cargo space. I do have a full-size (LT235/85r16) AT spare.

Aside from the TC not working, and an occasional weird stalling that I haven't figured out (no pattern; stalls, then can be started within seconds and runs again just fine), thid truck is TIGHT. Does not drip a drop of oil.

Mechanically, it's a daily driver as is, doesn't need brakes or exhaust or steering or ANYTHING.
 Please, serious inquiries only. This is a rock-solid driver that has no big unknowns to fix.

For sale locally, I reserve the right to end this ad at any time.