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Ford Mustang Drag Race Car - Street Legal - Big Block 521 V8 on 2040-cars

US $10,000.00
Year:1998 Mileage:121671 Color: Blue /
 Gray
Location:

Satellite Beach, Florida, United States

Satellite Beach, Florida, United States
Transmission:Automatic
Body Type:Coupe
Vehicle Title:Rebuilt, Rebuildable & Reconstructed
Engine:521 cubic inch V8
Fuel Type:Gasoline
For Sale By:Private Seller
VIN: 1FAFP4045WF200528 Year: 1998
Number of Cylinders: 8
Make: Ford
Model: Mustang
Trim: Base Coupe 2-Door
Power Options: Power Locks, Power Windows, Power Seats
Drive Type: RWD
Mileage: 121,671
Exterior Color: Blue
Warranty: Vehicle does NOT have an existing warranty
Interior Color: Gray
Condition: Used: A vehicle is considered used if it has been registered and issued a title. Used vehicles have had at least one previous owner. The condition of the exterior, interior and engine can vary depending on the vehicle's history. See the seller's listing for full details and description of any imperfections. ... 

Are you tired of ricers and import tuners beating you? Tired of being another guy with a blown small block? Tired of the endless stream of Fox body Mustangs? Are you ready to show 'em that "there's no replacement for displacement"? Ready to stand out from the crowd? Well, here's your chance! Be the only guy at the strip with a 521 cubic inch BIG BLOCK SN95 Mustang (1998)! This drag car is turnkey ready to race. This car was built to run 11.0 second 1/4 mile drags, maybe even in the 10s with the right setup and maybe some spray (NOS).

This car means business. This is not your typical Friday Night Special, sporting bolt-on go-fast parts. This car was purpose built to drag. Not only that, it was built to be a street-legal Sleeper. With the stock hood closed, the guy in the Camaro or 370Z at the light next to you will have no clue what you have waiting for him (wanna bet? $$$$). Not only is it street legal, its also track legal with all the NHRA mandated safety features (battery disconnect, drive shaft loop, c-clip eliminators, etc.).

Here is a link to a bunch of photos: 
http://s485.beta.photobucket.com/user/13_Sport/library/Big_Block_Mustang

I started this build a number of years ago, and it is 90% complete. If you want to reach its full potential for speed and show, it's going to need a couple of finishing touches (such as tires, paint, etc. details below). When my second baby was born 5 months ago, I ran out of money, time, and desire to finish it. My wife is missing half a year of paychecks, and we need some cash. To top it off, my toddler has no interest in riding in it or working on it because it's too loud (currently open headers). He prefers to ride in my old Jeep (1946 CJ2A), so I think I'll shift gears into fixing that up for daily driving.

I've poured over $17,000 and countless hours into this car. I've loved working on it, and wish I could have seen it reach its potential. But, its time for me to let it go. Its time for me to let you have your chance to enjoy the fast life.

I originally bought the car in 2003 as a theft recovery with a rebuildable title. The thieves had stolen the transmission, radio, and a few other miscellaneous items -- perfect start for a drag car! My goal was to build a late model big block mustang, something that no one had ever seen before. Sure, there are plenty of big block Fox body mustangs out there, but I had never heard of a SN95 big block. Since then I've found a couple others on the internet who have done this, but it is still VERY rare. The car sat warehoused in air-conditioned storage until 2008 when I brought it out and began the buildup in my garage. I started by getting and taking a 460 block to an engine builder machine shop in Miami to be worked up. I then got and took a C6 trans to a speed shop transmission builder as well. When they were done I began the installs. In 2009 I completed the basic install and started the engine for the first time in early 2010. In 2010 and 2011 I completed the rest of the car and drove it for the first time. In late 2011 and 2012 I took it to the track three times. The first time I went to the track I got two passes. On the first pass I took it up to 60 mph and cruised down the track, just to make sure everything was working right. The second pass I started off ultra soft until I got to about the 330-foot mark, then I began to open it up. It was INCREDIBLE! Once those big secondaries opened up I was flying. My time was nothing special. I don't remember what it was because of the slow start (Here is a video of the run:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d_kPv7n5ZQs). The second time I went to the track we got rained out and didn't get to run. The third time I went to the track I had an amazing launch but got too excited around the 660-foot mark and pushed the gas pedal too hard and broke the throttle cable. After that I installed an adjustable mechanical stop at the pedal to keep it from happening again. . .and I've never been back to the track. So, this car essentially has never had one complete pass. It's ridden around my neighborhood dozens of times (I try to run the engine at least once a month). It's had three incomplete passes. But, it has never had a true run. It's a virgin, waiting for you. The motor is fresh, and ready for use but I bet it could use a good carb/timing tune to truly maximize its potential.

I take a lot of pride in everything that I do, and this car is no exception. I am a mechanical engineer with professional experience in design and manufacturing for the Space Shuttle, Ares rockets, and executive jet airplanes. I am also a certified Aerospace Technician. I thoroughly researched and meticulously completed every aspect of this build. I torqued all installations to specification using calibrated torque wrenches. I ensured corrosion prevention by using stainless steel hardware throughout and even installed key parts with corrosion preventative dielectric grease. I am not an amateur and this is not an amateur car. 

So, enough rambling. Let's get down to listing what you get:

Basics:
- 1998 Ford Mustang
- Originally a base model, but none of those items remain
- Garage kept since 2003
- Rebuildable title, was a theft recovery (only needed if you want to drive on the street)
- Street legal -- working lights, full interior, etc. (but needs mufflers)

Body and Interior:
- Sleeper appearance
- Stock hood fits
- Complete interior
- Mustang Cobra leather front seats
- Power windows, doors, mirrors, etc.

Performance Parts:
Motor:
o Ford Big Block 460
o Professionally built by Street & Strip Machine Shop, Miami Florida
o Bored and stroked -- Now 521 cubic inch
o 10:1 compression ratio
o 5 angle valve job
o Port & polished heads
o Balanced
o Moderate lobe Competition Cams camshaft
o Estimated well over 500 horsepower (never dyno tested)
o Edelbrock Torker II 460 Aluminum intake manifold
o Edelbrock chrome valve covers
o Aluminum timing cover
o Powermaster XS Torque starter
o Ford Racing high volume oil pump
o 8 quart Ford Racing oil pan
o Mr. Gasket crankcase ventilation breathers
o Power steering and alternator, custom aluminum mounts, under drive pulleys
Exhaust:
o Custom 2 1/2 inch headers, Jet Hot ceramic coated, 4 inch collectors (currently open headers, knocks decorations off the wall in my house when I start it in the garage)
Fuel:
o Holley 4 barrel 750 CFM carburetor, mechanical secondaries, manual choke
o Holley 130 GPH mechanical fuel pump
o Holley fuel pressure regulator
o -10 (5/8") Braided stainless fuel lines
o Garantelli -10 Fuel pickups
o Inline fuel filter
o Stainless braided throttle and choke cables
o Summit Racing fuel manifold and pressure gauge
o Milodon low profile air cleaner, chrome
o New gas tank
o Autometer vacuum gauge, pillar mounted
Ignition:
o MSD 6A Multiple Spark Discharge Ignition
o MSD distributor
o MSD Blaster 3 ignition coil
o Ford Racing 9mm spark plug wires, with wire separators
o Battery mounted in truck
o Remote battery cutoff switch with rear bumper mounted push cutoff
o Ignition cutoff switch on center console for easy starts with advanced timing
Transmission:
o Ford C6 3-speed automatic
o Professionally built for drag racing by Florida Hydramatic in Miami
o TCI Breakaway torque converter, 2500 RPM stall
o Transmission cooler
o Custom aluminum transmission mount cross member
o Stainless braided transmission oil level dipstick
o Autometer transmission temp gauge, pillar mounted
Suspension and Chassis:
o AJE tubular k-member
o BBK Gripp Heavy Duty Subframe Connectors
o Professionally made custom drive shaft (built for 500+ HP)
o Drive shaft safety loop
o Steeda rear suspension
Heavy duty adjustable upper control arms
Aluminum lower control arms
Springs
Polyurethane bushings
o Mustang Cobra rear sway bar
o Front sway bar removed
o All new front bushings and ball joints
o Metal cut for rear Battle Boxes (not installed)
Electrical:
o 00 gauge power wires
o Battery mounted in trunk
o Wiring harness custom modified
Brakes:
o Brembo 4 piston front calipers
o 13" front rotors
o Mustang Cobra rear brakes
o Stainless braided brake lines
o Vacuum assisted power brakes
Drive Line:
o Built Ford 8.8" rear differential
Limited slip
Moser 31 spline axles
3.08:1 gears
Shortened to allow extra wide tires
Welded tubes for added strength
C-clip eliminators
All new bearings
Mobil 1 Synthetic Limited Slip oil
o SN95 Mustang Cobra wheels
Cooling:
o 2.25 inch dual core aluminum radiator w/ overflow bottle
o Dual electric fans
o Coolant temp gauge / radiator cap
o Ford Racing high flow water pump
o Air Conditioner removed
Extras:
- A collection of original, spare, extra, and not-yet-installed parts

At this point you are thinking that the car is perfect. Close. Here is a list off all of the things that could use some attention for the car to reach its full potential:
- Wide drag race slicks to maximize traction
- Front coil over struts for increased ground clearance for street use and to maximize traction during drag launches
- Title is currently "rebuildable" -- if you want to register for street use you'll need to prove it is street legal, which means installing a muffler and passing an inspection
- The body looks good from a distance, but get up close and you'll see a bunch of small dents, chips, and scratches, mainly from the theft and 5 years in storage --- it could use a little body work. . .I'm thinking some white race stripes would be nice too!
- Some of the interior items are still incomplete, such as radio and a couple of trim pieces. Also, the stock key switch was destroyed by the theft. I installed a new one on the dash.
- Some of the auxiliary electrical items are not integrated yet such as the cabin air fan and some of the original gauges.
- Although the engine fits under the stock hood, it's very tight. You may want a cowl induction hood, unless you want to keep the sleeper look
- The engine and transmission leak some oil, mostly during prolonged storage. I keep a drip pan under it
- The windshield is cracked. If Florida you can get it replaced for free when you get the car insured
- The rest of the windows could use new tinting
- It may be a good idea to install the battle boxes (metal already cut) once you get it dialed in
- It may be a good idea to install the 5-point harness (already have) once you get moving at 130+mph

As you can see, the open work is pretty minor. In fact, most of it is based on your individual tastes so it wouldn't make sense for me to do it. For example, if I installed quiet mufflers for street use, installed a radio, and painted it blue with white racing stripes, you may prefer the open headers, stripped out interior, and red paint. . .

Here is a link to a video of the car starting, idling, and some light revs:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yzep-Uuq5SU

The bottom line here is that you have an excellent opportunity to pick up this 90% complete car at a small fraction of my money (and time) investment, complete it the way you like best (or use it as is), and go have some fun scaring the crap out of the import tuners at your local drag strip. In turn, I get some cash to pay the bills, a little money to rebuild my old Jeep, and a parking space in the garage to keep the family car cool for driving the kids around.

Please feel free to email or call me any time. I am willing to deliver it anywhere in Florida for no cost. If you pay my full asking price, I will deliver anywhere in the Southeast US for no cost, or I will deliver anywhere in the continental US for my actual driving costs round trip (fuel, motel, tolls) from zip code 32937 in my 1999 F-150. That said, I'm flexible. Let's negotiate, but. . .please, no low ballers.

Thanks for looking! I hope to hear from you soon.

Ryan

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