1968 Dodge Dart Gss 440 Gts Gt 727 3.91 Gears Mr Norms, Dick Landy,factory Rare on 2040-cars
US $7,000.00
Year:1968
Mileage:100000
Location:
Orange City, Florida, United States
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This is a 1968 Dodge DART GSS, GTS, GT
440 RB motor 727 transmission. 3.91 gears Factory console tachometer (works) I am letting some of my collection go, I have just to many to finish, PLEASE READ THE FOLLOWING ABOUT THIS CAR... IT was originally F7 green with white interior and white stripes, But some previous owner had it painted yellow ( a long time ago) YOU CAN STILL SEE THE FACTORY GREEN PAINT IN THE JAMBS, FLOORS, AND UNDER THE HOOD AND THE TRUNK. It still has it's fender tag and the clear title is in my name. It has been saved from a racer that was going to tub, cage & back half it.. I have the original "GSS" emblems that go with the car for the front of the hood, trunk lid and both fenders. I also have the original GTS interior door panel emblems that both go with the car. The three sets of holes for them are still present in the body fenders, trunk and hood.. The GTS hood inserts have been changed from the 68 inserts, to the 69 style that says "440 four barrel" by a previous owner. The car still has it's original 8 3/4 rear end, but has had the axle bearings changed to the newer "green" sealed bearings, And it has a strange spool and 3.91 gears. The car has two driveshafts and the one on the car is too short in my opinion. The other one looks like it was welded by a less than professional welder and needs to be redone or at the least rebalanced before use. He told us that he broke it "back in the day" The car has a total of 6 of the GTS hubcaps that make a stock wheel look like a mag wheel., 4 are on the car. It has a set of extra wheels (2) for the back that are 15" with drag slicks installed that just barely fit the stock wheel wells back there. They are also small bolt pattern wheels too ( 5 on 4) The 2 wheels with slicks are for the" poverty style" hubcaps and include a set of 4 of those caps also that go. ( you can simply change the hubcaps up front and put the other wheels and caps on the rear and go racing!") The SLICKS are Mickey Thompson ET DRAG 29"x9.00" x 15", mounted on custom black powder coated small bolt (5 on 4:)pattern wheels 15"x7" The have wheel tire screws and are also balanced. The 8 3/4 rear is stock A body width and these wheels and tires fit with clearance to race. The leaf springs are in the stock location and have not been moved inboard. They hang using the factory springs and hangars. The back half of the leaf springs I noticed are unclamped ( old racer trick) My personal preference is to drive it with the slicks on it and the poverty caps, But to avoid a ticket when I drove it sneaking to a local cruise I put the 14" wheels on it and the gts hubcaps back on as it still has now on the ground. The shocks look oem all the way around... The drivers side front drum still has the "left hand thread lugs on it" the other 3 corners have the normal right hand thread lugs. The shocks look old. Especially the fronts. The leaf springs show signs of the drag slicks rubbing against them from it's racing career. I mounted the slicks onto the car and they never rubbed with just me in the car going around the neighborhood, IT has welded in sub frame connectors joining the front and rear subframes together. I asked what times he was getting in the quarter mile and he claims it is able to run mid 11's all day long..."AS IS" I think he is correct. I have a true low 8 second supercharged drag/pro street big block tube chassis car here, and know what it takes to get there! This car has a lot more potential... THE ENGINE STILL IS USING THE FACTORY 440 "A" BODY CAST IRON EXHAUST MANIFOLDS FOR THE "A" body 440's. ( these are not the same as the smaller 383 engine mills on the drivers side I know) The exhaust manifolds for the 440 in a A body I recently seen sold here on ebay for OVER 4,000.oo dollars JUST by themselves.!!!! These are the factory originals too.. So they are very rare.!!!!! The rest of the exhaust is breathing thru dual flowmasters 2 1/4" and pipe going out past the back bumper, but in my opinion they need to be larger to let this motor really go! the tips are not original either, BUT I see some of the hangars for the old tips are still there underneath. It does keep it fairly quiet though I guess to be fair to street drive it... they have had the heat riser removed, but it can be added back again. ( he thought it was restrictive) These cars where built to go racing and not many around these days anymore. The inner fenders are still stock and uncut. Most if not all where sold thru Grand Spaulding Dodge only. I was told only 48 where built in 1968. The headlights and tail lights work, the turn signals work. Some of the dash bulbs need to be replaced and are not working. the factory dash gauges such as oil pressure amp, speedo and turn signals and flashers all work. The previous owner has another tachometer mounted to race with on the dash, But the factory tach is still there and still works, But needs hooked back up again. ( he unhooked it and was using a tach that reads higher rpm as he says he was shifting it at 6400 rpm) The stock tach only goes to 6,000rpm. So you get both tachs... It has the original carpeting in it still and it is needing a wash!!!!! or replaced. the heater core is not hooked up and I have not messed with it.. But the blower still works !!!! I think the core is still good. I found NO buildsheet under the back seat, It may still be under the carpet or behind the heater box, But not had time to look further.. . the front buckets have been recovered by somebody and look great. ( white) It has no seat belts as he had a harness in it and kept it when we picked up the car. He also kept his driveshaft safety loop from under the car. The headliner is from a newer dart ( like 72) It has working mechanical oil pressure and mechanical water temp gauges mounted at the bottom of the dash mounted in chrome. I have ran the car around the neighborhood and it does not overheat. I have "got on it"..., and Yes, it really moves and can lay rubber at will anytime let's say !!!! THE 440 in the car is not the original block and looks to be from 76' He told us that it has a hydraulic cam in it and new pistons,new oil pump and rings and bearings. I don't think it's a huge cam, But probably the max you would want to run with these factory exhaust manifolds.. When I start it up cold it has 75-80 psi oil pressure and hot after driving and getting on it etc, it stays around 45 to 50 at idle rpm. It does have the correct "A" body oil pan still under there... The motor runs well, But I see lots of room for improvements. It does not leak fluids. IT does NOT smoke either hot or cold. IT has been converted by someone to the newer 72' and up electronic ignition. The oirginal points distributor came with it in the box he gave us, and you can have it.. The motor does not make funny noises or knocks of any kind at any rpm.. It does have an exhaust leak on the driver's side at the pipes, But I have done nothing to fix it. It currently has a mopar M1 intake on it and a 750 double pumper holley 4 barrel and a holley chrome air cleaner and newer air filter., BUT INCLUDED with it is the factory 440 intake manifold and a mopar holley carb that came with the car when we rescued it. AND the Factory chrome 4 barrel air cleaner/filter & pie tin that says "440 Magnum" assembly that he left in the trunk ( he raced it that way in the trunk for weight he said !!!). the battery is still in the stock location. I would use the factory stuff myself, but the factory air cleaner does not allow the hood to close with the M1 intake manifold and I agree the M1 intake really works better anyways., So I have left the M1 intake on it.. It has a 3400 stall convertor.TCI It still has it's front sway bar. It has only manual steering and manual brakes. The brakes are the factory 10" drum up front and factory drum in the rear. INCLUDED is a Extra pair of the front 10" drum brakes ( spindles, drums loaded and all) they are the same as the large oem drums on it up front now, Small 5 on 4" bolt pattern like the car has. The car from the back seat forward is basically rust fee and solid. ( maybe a little surface rust in the scratches, etc, BUT NO ROT. FLOORS ARE SOLID ORIGINAL , car has factory undercoating still there.which saved it's life. the frames and K frame are solid. Doors open and close as they should BUT The spare tire well needs replaced, but is still holding the stock gas tank well and solid. The car needs new trunk drops and new outer skins around the rear wheelwells. The rest of the car is solid and does not need replaced. I firmly believe the only reason the outer skins at the rear wheel well need replaced is because of making more room for the bigger tires ( drag slicks) using a bat or a hammer or something??? The bumpers still shine, But are not of show quality either..They are in good shape in my opinion though and can be used as is or rechrome for a show car. Leave AS IS, for a survivor car... the chrome leading edge hood trim and window trim is still there, Though some of it is in the back seat uninstalled. The windows all roll up and down, but are very stiff from not being used. The interior door and back panels are missing. The back seat needs to be redone and is splitting where the sun hits it all the time. It has clear glass in it ( not tinted)\ It was being used mostly as a factory stock race car and for some crazy reason he had chevy mirrors and marker lights on the thing which I took off and threw away and put the 68 mopar dart factory mirrors back on the doors. It still has the stock gas cap. It is not a restored car, but I also am not trying to get 100 grand out of it either. It is far from being a junker and These are so rare to see now a days.. It has a great amount of potential and can easily be restored or raced again. Drive it while you work on it... IT has the factory floor shift console and shifter still. The transmission has been rebuilt locally by GER and has a bolt in sprag unit installed. Shift kit and retains its normal shift pattern. It has a good battery . The radiator has been swapped but works good.' It has chrome valve covers on the motor ALSO INCUDED is a fiberglass GTS hood in race weight that was made at AAR fiberglass. IT is still new and never been used or mounted. ( its a pin on hood) Still in AAR gelcoat. It came with the car when we got it. The fuel gauge works "part time" it seems. the factory dash gauges still work including the speedometer. It can be driven and snuck around, But I do not have license plates on it. It should be trailered or towed to any far away location for safety. It needs things and attention I cannot give to it. If you live nearby and feel you can get away with it you could drive it home !!!! I can drive it onto a trailer and deliver it within 75 miles of my home for the cost of diesel fuel. OR A commercial hauler can pick it up at my home ( 18 wheelers have delivered me cars three times in the past. We have the room for a big rig.. I can store the car for a month and if you are coming down to the Daytona Beach Turkey Rod Run and Swap meet you can pick it up then here in person when you come, AS Orange City, Florida is close to Daytona Beach IT IS SOLD AS IS...,' IT IS SOLD WHERE IS.. IT IS SOLD WITHOUT ANY SORT OF WARRANTY. THERE IS NO REFUNDS// NO RETURNS.. NO JOY RIDES OR TIRE KICKERS DEPOST IS NON REFUNDABLE, PERIOD.' IF YOU BID AND WIN YOU HAVE THREE (3) BUSINESS DAYS TO PAY IN FULL. DEPOSIT IS DUE AT END OF AUCTION, BALANCE IN PERSON OR OVERNIGHT EXPRESS MAIL CASHIERS CHECK, CASH, PAYPAL WITHIN THE THREE (3) days... PAYPAL IS PREFERED. BE SURE THE ITEM IS WHAT YOU WANT BEFORE YOU BID, AND BE SURE YOU CAN PAY FOR IT AS INSTRUCTED "BEFORE" YOU BID. DONT LEAVE A NEGATIVE FEEDBACK AND YET NEVER CAME AND LOOKED AT THE CAR FIRST BEFORE YOU BUY IT. I abide by ebays rules and you should too please. I HAVE TRIED TO DESCRIBE THIS CAR AS ACCURATE AS POSSIBLE AND DON'T WANT TO MISLEAD ANY ONE!!! I am VERY EASY t get along with, But have been burned in the past. THANK YOU FOR LOOKING, Please check out some of my other auctions I will try to answer any questions asap, BUT I am on a 6-12 hr days work schedule at my job, And have a family too boot, So it may take me awhile. I can be reached at 386-561-1181. Sunday afternoons are best for me. CAR CAN BE INSPECTED BEFORE BIDDING AT ORANGE CITY, FLORIDA 32763. Just off I-4 at exit 114. BY APPOINTMENT. ( half way between Daytona Beach and Orlando, Florida) Grant Eaton |
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